Eye of the Storm
|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200', Grade IV|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Johnny Copp (first 4), Nils Davis and Brent Obinger|
|Page Views: ||654|
|Submitted By: ||SamP on Jul 1, 2013|
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Caroline on the P3 splitter of Eye of the Storm
A badass route put up by some badass Sierra crushers! It offers classic Hulk crack climbing, challenging face climbing, stemming and an awesome dead point move to exit the crux dihedral. We'll also mention a little "tread lightly" climbing on some hollow flakes that felt relatively safe, as it is protected by well placed bolts.
Get out and climb this route!
Here's an article by Nils about the first ascent:
Eye of the Storm starts between the Venturi Effect and Tradewinds but traverses right past Tradewinds on the bivy ledge and climbs the upper headwall between AstroHulk and the Red Dihedral.
The suggested rack on the topo is pretty right on. We took two #2 camalots and were pleased.
Oh, also, we thought you could place a couple offset cams if you brought them. Maybe blue/green, green/yellow alien sizes.
Matt face climbs out right on p2.
Looking up the crux pitch from the belay.
Matt sizes up the dead point on the crux pitch.
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