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Routes in The Maiden
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Belladonna T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Cunning Stunt T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Direct North Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dream Street Rose T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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East Ridge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eye Of the Storm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Gates of Delirium, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gates of Galas T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Hasta La Hueco S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Heart of the Sunrise S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Kor-Dalke Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Maiden Voyage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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North Side of the Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Queen-line T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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South Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Southern Seas, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Overhang T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tony Bubb, Taimi Metzlers, Fall 1995 |
| Page Views: | 2,148 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 28, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This route is obscure and doesn't have much redeeming quality. There is not much reason or call to repeat it other than scaring one's nutz off. I am posting it here for anyone who ever wonders... "Has anyone done that thing?" or "What are those slings up there for?" So here you go.
Climb the first pitch of the classic "South Face" of the Maiden to the ledge belay. From there, strike upward some distance to a sloping ramp that goes up and right. You will be about at the height of the bolt on the third pitch of the South Face. On this ramp head up and left for 60 meters, more or less aiming at the "eye" of the dolphin, as you can imagine the flatiron being, or see drawn in Rossiter's guidebook. There are a few sloping cruxes and a few fixed slings. They are garbage by now, if present at all. They were left behind when the second did not wish to follow the route and a rope was pulled up thorough minimal gear to rap down from the route.
By divine providence or the grace of god, may you reach the dolphin's forehead without falling on this line, or find better gear than I did.
The difficulty will depend upon you finding the same line I did- there were other deviant choices with virtue and vice judgments to be made regarding gear and difficulty along the way.
Climb the first pitch of the classic "South Face" of the Maiden to the ledge belay. From there, strike upward some distance to a sloping ramp that goes up and right. You will be about at the height of the bolt on the third pitch of the South Face. On this ramp head up and left for 60 meters, more or less aiming at the "eye" of the dolphin, as you can imagine the flatiron being, or see drawn in Rossiter's guidebook. There are a few sloping cruxes and a few fixed slings. They are garbage by now, if present at all. They were left behind when the second did not wish to follow the route and a rope was pulled up thorough minimal gear to rap down from the route.
By divine providence or the grace of god, may you reach the dolphin's forehead without falling on this line, or find better gear than I did.
The difficulty will depend upon you finding the same line I did- there were other deviant choices with virtue and vice judgments to be made regarding gear and difficulty along the way.
Protection
Not much. A few bad nuts and a few tricams are all I can recall. There were long runouts above marginal placements. Some were pulled out by applying tension and shaking the rope after I'd led the pitch. The fixed slings I left on features are from 1995. In hindsight, it was litter, but my partner could not follow the route safely, and I ended up leaving them.
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