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Eye of the Needle 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tim Powers, Neal Strickland, 1992
Page Views: 1,807
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 20, 2008
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Eye of the Needle

Description 

Start by climbing up a slabby section of rock with some friction moves to reach good holds. Wander up the face, using the arete as needed. Sometimes the moves are on the face, sometimes you need the excellent holds provided by the sharp corner of the arete. Toward the top, it becomes a bit more overhung, but the arete becomes more and more useful to supply jugs. This route is just plain fun! Certainly do it if you are here! It's a nice break from all of the other pumpy routes in the area. It's also exceptionally well protected.


Location 

This route is the arete immediately to the left of Sparky Goes Crack Climbing and about 30 ft to the left of Manic Impression.


Protection 

10 bolts, chains.



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Eye of the Needle
Eye of the Needle
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By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
May 4, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I'd recommend staying right and in the crack until you're about even with the third bolt. Trying to go up the left arete will probably put you in no holds land pretty quickly.

By Tim Powers
From: Indiana
Sep 22, 2013

The crack was not used on the FA.