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 ADVANCED
Bolton Quarry
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Anxious S 
Anything For An A S 
Cat's Ass, The S 
Collateral Daveage S 
Duckling T 
Eye of the Cougar T,S 
It's only Interment T,S 
Off Night S 

Eye of the Cougar 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Colin Rickert 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,353
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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"The Eye of the Cougar" follows the thin seam unti...
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Description 

Super tech bouldery route above the start of "It's Only Interment" (i.e. direct finish on thin seam). The route features two cruxes which come back to back with a sketchy clip thrown in between. First crux is an extension move off a side pull while the second crux is a full body lock-off/press-down off a miserable gaston to an incut hold way above with pasted feet (the full sequence is about V6-ish). Finish with a few feet of 5.10/V1 climbing using some gear for pro in the crack (one bolt anchor at the moment). Grade needs more ascents to confirm. Good luck...


Location 

Far left hand side of Cat's Ass Wall


Protection 

Use small wire and cam in crack near the top. May wish to place gear below first bolt too. I climbed up to clip first bolt then down climb and start over (clipping first bolt messes up sequence). FA was pinkpointed. This route could be bouldered if one were bold enough and had enough pads though a large rock at the bottom would need to be moved or broken into smaller pieces somehow as its a real danger (crux is at about 16 feet)



Photos of Eye of the Cougar Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling into the initial crux sequence. This section is about V4+ or V5 and involves an extension move off a side-pull to a quarter-pad shite crimp. Above this one can pause briefly and clip the second bolt before moving on to the more difficult redpoint crux above (V6?)
Pulling into the initial crux sequence. This secti...
Comments on Eye of the Cougar Add Comment
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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Nov 25, 2010

I've upped the rating to solid 12c (no more b/c). I've talked to locals and I haven't heard of a repeat despite attempts by several climbers. The complete crux sequence (i.e. from above the crack to the the horizontal break) is probably solid V6. Having just redpointed "Get it On" at Rumney (12c/d) I would offer that 'Eye of the Cougar' is actually somewhat harder. I hope someone repeats this and offers their own opinion...

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Aug 25, 2011

My friend Josh Potter from Albany repeated this route a couple weeks ago at the end of the day. Josh is a pretty strong boulderer and offered a bouldering grade of hard V6(+) which is pretty much what I thought. We both feel it is harder than The Doggfather or Beyond (both rated 12b, both of which Josh dispatched in 2 tries).