Eye of the Cougar 5.12c
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 25 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Colin Rickert 2009 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | colin rickert on Apr 14, 2010 |
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"The Eye of the Cougar" follows the thin seam unti...
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Description Super tech bouldery route above the start of "It's Only Interment" (i.e. direct finish on thin seam). The route features two cruxes which come back to back with a sketchy clip thrown in between. First crux is an extension move off a side pull while the second crux is a full body lock-off/press-down off a miserable gaston to an incut hold way above with pasted feet (the full sequence is about V6-ish). Finish with a few feet of 5.10/V1 climbing using some gear for pro in the crack (one bolt anchor at the moment). Grade needs more ascents to confirm. Good luck...
Location Far left hand side of Cat's Ass Wall
Protection Use small wire and cam in crack near the top. May wish to place gear below first bolt too. I climbed up to clip first bolt then down climb and start over (clipping first bolt messes up sequence). FA was pinkpointed. This route could be bouldered if one were bold enough and had enough pads though a large rock at the bottom would need to be moved or broken into smaller pieces somehow as its a real danger (crux is at about 16 feet)
Pulling into the initial crux sequence. This secti...
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| Comments on Eye of the Cougar |
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By colin rickert
From: Ottawa, ON
Nov 25, 2010
| I've upped the rating to solid 12c (no more b/c). I've talked to locals and I haven't heard of a repeat despite attempts by several climbers. The complete crux sequence (i.e. from above the crack to the the horizontal break) is probably solid V6. Having just redpointed "Get it On" at Rumney (12c/d) I would offer that 'Eye of the Cougar' is actually somewhat harder. I hope someone repeats this and offers their own opinion... |
By colin rickert
From: Ottawa, ON
Aug 25, 2011
| My friend Josh Potter from Albany repeated this route a couple weeks ago at the end of the day. Josh is a pretty strong boulderer and offered a bouldering grade of hard V6(+) which is pretty much what I thought. We both feel it is harder than The Doggfather or Beyond (both rated 12b, both of which Josh dispatched in 2 tries). |
By colin rickert
From: Ottawa, ON
Mar 9, 2013
| Word on the street is that UVM grad student Patrick Dyess soloed / highballed this route/problem. I spoke with him about it and he claimed that 5 pads was enough to protect the fall with one stuffed in the obvious hole (maybe 5 really large pads?). He said he took a fall intentionally up high to be sure it was safe near the crux (the landing is crap) and decided it was do-able after which he soloed it. Pretty sick if you ask me but still I would NOT call this a boulder problem. I think he said V5+ or V6 for the grade (I've seen him crank V10's in the gym quite regularly)... |
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