Eye of the Beholder
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|Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
This route has some variety when it comes to the different styles of climbing on it.
P1. Do bouldery moves off the ground, heading for a shallow, left-facing corner(crux) (bolt). Continue up the face (gear then bolt) to a small, black overhang. Pull over this (gear) and establish below the face, stepping left (bolt) making thin moves passing subtle gear placements before passing another bolt. Climb up black ledgy terrain below roof (bolt). Climb up and right to a bolt in the roof and pull onto the ledge (crux). Continue up orange rock (bolt) getting on lower angled rock and passing 2 more bolts and the last bolt on wild child, 5.10c PG13, 140 feet.
- *This pitch was originally led all on gear, even though i have added bolts you need gear to supplement sections between bolts. THIS IS NOT A SPORT pitch. A good eye is needed for gear placements.
P2. Climb the first 7 bolts of Wild Child's
third pitch, once at the 7th bolt, look right for the pitch 3 anchor below dihedral. Traverse right along narrow ledge (5.easy) placing gear along the way. Long runners are helpful, 5.9 PG-13, 70 feet.
P3. Stem up past 5 bolts in the corner above, followed by a wild top out onto belay ledge. Place an optional, finger-sized cam before 5th bolt. (The 5th bolt is in the overhang almost behind you, gives protection at your waist as you mantle and keeps rope away from flake), 5.10c G, 50 feet.
- *There is a large hanging flake at the top of the corner. This has been worked on many times to trundle it but doesn't budge. So we deemed it safe, even using it as a foot; however, if this scares you, it's totally avoidable.
P4. Climb the obvious, steep hand/offwidth crack above passing a large chockstone. Follow a thin crack above, stepping left and up the face. #5 & #6 (optional) Camalots are helpful, 5.10a/b PG-13, 60 feet.
Start: begin just uphill from Wild Child
and left of Challenger
at an obvious V notch above an overhang.
Descent: rappel down Wild Child
or walk off.
It is also possible to reach the 3rd pitch dihedral by climbing the first 3 pitches of Wild Child
then rapping down to the anchor at the base of the dihedral.
P1. 10 bolts, many (10-12) long runners. Standard rack.
P2. Many long runners, Standard rack.
P3. 5 quickdraws, optional 0.5-0.75 before 5th bolt (long runner. possible to haul rest of rack up this pitch easily.
P4. SR-#4 thin hands-offwidth-slabby thin crack.
- Some might find having extras in #0.3-#1 size Camalot helpful for 1st and last pitches. Nuts are not necessary for any of the pitches.
P1 before the bolts were added.
BETA PHOTO: Route topo. Wild Child is the left line, Eye of th...
SJ coming up the last slab on P1.
BETA PHOTO: General protection bolt locations in green.
Jason about to commit to the mantle.
P2 traverse after leaving W.C. at the 5th bolt.
Tony Bubb past the wideness on p.4 finishing the s...