Eye Noir  5.9 PG13

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Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 510 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Bob Steed, Dan Dingle, David Whitelaw 4/08 Submitted By:  Kurt Jensen on Mar 6, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

starts on friction slab to ledge with 1" crack pro, followed by more bolted slab. A bit runout on all pitches, but bolts where it counts, and shiny new ones too. Everything would be in the GREAT rating until you pass through a round dark grey cavity, "the eye" on P3. shortly after that, positve edges become slimy and covered in sometimes 1-2'' of bird or bat guano, which really spices up the finish, 15' above last bolt, trying to clear slimy footholds and handholds of a toxic goop. The belay is full of it, and you then find it comes from the large flake just above, on the upper headwall, where a lot of noise was happening at sunset in 1/12 when my girlfriend and I climbed it. Bring a brush or rap after pitch 2! Shame really, the Eye is cool.

Location 

starts midway across the 3rd class right traverse ledge, just past a tree and near a nice small ledge to sit on.

Protection 

4 bolts P1 +1" cam, 3b P2, 6b (and large scrub brush) P3
Great rap rings, bring 2 60m ropes, long p2&3