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Half Dome
Routes Sorted
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Autobahn T 
Blondike T 
Deuceldike T 
Eye in the Sky T 
Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome T 
Snake Dike T 
Southwest Face, The T 
Two Hoofers T 

Eye in the Sky 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 1500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Spencer, Shirley Spencer, Dan Abbot & David Abbot, April 1985
Season: Summer through Early October
Page Views: 1,890
Submitted By: Eric Foster on Nov 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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  • Description 

    It starts off the right side of the rope up ledge for Snake Dike. It heads right for a short 5.9 pitch to an anchor on 1/4" bolts then the second pitch follows a runout dike to a runout face that joins Snake Dike at the end of the second pitch then goes straight up the face above the anchor instead of traversing to the Snake Dike. Natural pro is needed for the 10B pitch up high. (Adamclimbs)

    Location 

    Approach same as snake dike, also starts the same as well for the first pitch only

    Protection 

    some gear might be helpful in a few spots, otherwise a few draws for the extremely runout climbing on quarter inchers.


    Comments on Eye in the Sky Add Comment
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    By Adamclimbs
    Jun 4, 2010

    The route does not actually start after the first pitch of Snake Dike,it starts off the right side of the rope up ledge for Snake Dike. It heads right for a short 5.9 pitch to an anchor on 1/4" bolts then the second pitch follows a runout dike to a runout face that joins Snake Dike at the end of the second pitch then goes straight up the face above the anchor instead of traversing to the Snake Dike. Natural pro is needed for the 10B pitch up high. I thought this was a high quality route in a great position, but would recommend it only if you enjoy runouts on old bolts. Almost all protection bolts are 1/4" and many are protruding more than a 1/4" to 1/2" from the rock.
    By Osprey Overhang
    From: ...
    Mar 7, 2012

    FA: Mark Spencer, Shirley Spencer, Dan Abbot, David Abbot, 4/1985
    By Rob Dillon
    Apr 7, 2012

    Bolts replaced in summer 2010 by Roger Brown et al.
    By Bryan G
    From: Santa Cruz
    Apr 6, 2015

    This climb is at most a 5.9, and even for that grade it seemed a lot easier than some other Valley 5.9's like Quicksilver and Angelica. I also get the feeling that the FA used up all their bolts on the first 5 pitches and then had to make due with gear anchors and runout climbing for the last 3 pitches. The "10b" (more like 5.8) 6th pitch is quite runout with a really bad fall onto a low-angle slab below. Expect 5.7 R/X climbing. But it's still a really cool pitch with interesting climbing in a shallow corner with a dike on the left-hand wall. Good climb, big approach, bolts are good-to-go now, do it instead of Snake Dike if you're up for a 5.9 R.
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