Fantastic route with bolts where its harder and tcu's where its easier. Sport climbers need to come and do this thing! The crux is stellar and unique. It is very easy to TR this as it shares anchors with Psychobabble. This makes it easy to headpoint and work it out till you feel comfortable leading it. That's what I had to do anyway.
TCU's or aliens, draws
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 30, 2012
Scary for sure. Only 2 bolts to get you to the final headwall, and the cracks you have available are pretty shallow and thin. I use 2 red c3's, purple tcu, and a green c3. the moves at the top are pretty hard, and its R to the anchor after the last bolt.(at least I couldn't find anything worth placing). I guess the gear would hold... Still headpointing this one.
Aug 30, 2012
How can it be R if there is no possible way to fall and hit something? Once you get to the second to the last bolt you can have the TR belay tie off with a bunch of slack and then start taking the whipper for the upper crux. They're super safe falls and part of the process for figuring it out.
I never could make myself fall on the gear in the middle but then its easy .10 climbing till you get to the bolt in the middle. Its tempting to rest after that (super fun) .11 crux in the middle on those huge jugs. But staying there for very long was too costly for me.