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D&D, AKA Lone Ranger 
Eye For an Eye 
Fiddlin' Buckaroo 
Replikator  
Rhythm on the Range 
Riders of the Purple Sage 
Rootin' Tootin' Rhythm  

Eye For an Eye 

5.7

   
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Type: Sport, 115 feet
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
FA: Tim Standing, Sheryl Bennett 2007
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jun 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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"Eye For an Eye".
Photo by Blitzo.


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Description 

5.6** to first anchor. Start several feet right of "Riders of the Purple Sage" Climb passing 5 bolts, move right crossing "Lone Ranger" to the first anchor.
5.7*** To second anchor. Face climbing passes 7 more bolts to anchor, 115'.


Protection 

Draws.



Photos of Eye For an Eye Slideshow Add Photo
Locker standing around on "Eye for an Eye". <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Locker standing around on "Eye for an Eye".
Photo ...


Steve Swan near the top of "Eye for an Eye". <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Steve Swan near the top of "Eye for an Eye".
Photo...


Owen and Nomi on the first pitch.

Owen and Nomi on the first pitch.

Bryson (at 6 years old) climbs Eye for an Eye, in the Alabama Hills.

Bryson (at 6 years old) climbs Eye for an Eye, in ...


Comments on Eye For an Eye Add Comment
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By splitclimber
Feb 9, 2011

over a year ago i saw a note on tape on the first bolt about no anchors.

does anyone know the status of both anchors? I know there was some bolt replacement work last season.

thx.

By splitclimber
Mar 23, 2011

new anchors have been installed. we got off route and finished up to the top to the right of I4I anchors - maybe 5.8/9.

By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.7

Today, (4/17/11) we climbed riders of the purple sage, but noted the second bolt was missing its hanger on eye for an eye.

By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
May 29, 2011

As of yesterday, the second bolt is still missing its hanger.

By Aaron Slaven
From: Fresno, CA
Jun 21, 2011
rating: 5.7

2nd bolt still missing hanger - 6/18/11

By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.7

Hanger still missing - stud appears solid.
We led Riders and clipped the 3rd bolt of Eye on lower and pulled the rope and had a top rope up to there to protect the start. Cinching a nut on there would work too.

By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Feb 18, 2013

Clipped hanger-equipped P1 2nd bolt on 2/16/2013.

The second pitch anchor, as depicted in the new Bishop Area Rock Climbs and in topo photo here, can clearly be seen from the ground. Only 3 bolts on P2 lead to that anchor actually, as in one doesn't cross the highest crack climbing up and right onto the slab face with 4 more bolts that lead to the summit. A subtle bulge obscures the view of this P2 anchor the whole way once one is on the route. Instead of saying either 3 bolts to that lower P2 anchor or 7 bolts to the summit topside rap anchor, that book says 12 bolts for the second pitch and the route description here says 7 bolts to the lower P2 anchor shown in topo photo, both incorrect. Other bolted routes exist to the right of Eye For An Eye, rated 5.8 to 5.9. The aforementioned top 4 bolts leading to the summit seem to be the finish of the adjacent route immediately to the right, as the face climbing to the summit felt a tad harder than 5.7. But, hey, shoot for the summit if comfortable with that, for the extra climbing and nice view up top.

Rap from summit is more than 120 ft, as rapping with our 70 m rope did not reach the ground. Straightforward though to get back to first pitch anchor and do a second rap from there to the ground.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.8

All well equipped now. No mussy hooks at the top of the second pitch only links. We chose to rap the route - two raps. Tremendous second pitch which gets more and more though provoking as it steepens towards the top - great views when sitting on top bringing up the second, that's why I did it that way -- just to ponder a while.

Looks like I took Sean's option, crossing rightwards over the crack and shooting for the top - I think that's the way to go but yes harder than 5.7.

By Dreifert
From: Foothill Ranch, CA
Mar 25, 2013

Nice view from the top. Linked both pitches and did two raps with 60m to get down. Both anchors looked great.