Extreme 5.11+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Metsdagh etc @ 1980 |
| Submitted By: | david goldstein on Aug 11, 2008 |
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Seasonal Raptor Closure In Effect MORE INFO >>>
The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A great companion route for Conan compared to which this has a defined crux (@ ~20') but is not quite as pumpy. Could use a little more traffic -- there are some serious bushes at the easiest part of pitch. Protects very well if you can hang on long enough, but don't block any key holds. The end is a little vague as you can go either straight up for one final crux before joining Conan though the moves naturally take you into Conan just where that pitch eases up.
Location Starts about 5' left of Conan.
Protection I placed an RP at the start, then small to medium nuts and cams from blue Alien to red Camalot w/ emphasis on finger sizes.
By Jimmy Farrell From: Lexington, KY Nov 4, 2008 rating: 5.11+
| This climb, and its companion, Conan, are two of the funnest cracks I have done in Boulder Canyon. If this is your grade, these are not to be missed! The protection is fantastic. GEAR BETA - In the interest of safety, there's a bomber 0.75 BD C4 (or Black Metolius) at the start, followed by a confidence inspiring Green #0 BD C3. |
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