|Upper East Face
A great companion route for Conan compared to which this has a defined crux (@ ~20') but is not quite as pumpy. Could use a little more traffic -- there are some serious bushes at the easiest part of pitch. Protects very well if you can hang on long enough, but don't block any key holds. The end is a little vague as you can go either straight up for one final crux before joining Conan though the moves naturally take you into Conan just where that pitch eases up.
Starts about 5' left of Conan.
I placed an RP at the start, then small to medium nuts and cams from blue Alien to red Camalot w/ emphasis on finger sizes.
|By Jimmy Farrell|
From: Lexington, KY
Nov 4, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
This climb, and its companion, Conan, are two of the funnest cracks I have done in Boulder Canyon. If this is your grade, these are not to be missed! The protection is fantastic. GEAR BETA - In the interest of safety, there's a bomber 0.75 BD C4 (or Black Metolius) at the start, followed by a confidence inspiring Green #0 BD C3.