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Routes in Mudterm Area
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Balancing Act T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Buckets of Blood T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Critical Cams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Even Men Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Goods Are Odd T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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In For a Penny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lucky Nuts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Moody's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mudterm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Foerstel, Larry Deangelo |
| Page Views: | 1,655 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Rudeboy on May 27, 2015 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The lower pitches are nothing special but the upper wall was quality all things considered. We climbed it in 6 pitches.
Lower wall: Best climbed in 3 pitches at about 90'-110'. There are two "tiers" of big ledges between lower/upper wall. I included scrambling up to the second tier in my last pitch(150').
Upper wall: We climbed this in 3 pitches: P4-Climb up directly under the big corner to a belay on a decent ledge at about 40'. 5.4
P5- Up through the corner. Plenty of big holds and continuous protection options up to the crux where I went up left on the face instead of slithering up the flare. 150' 5.6
P6- Continue up the crack and follow the corner left and top out. 60'. 5.5
I suspect that 2 60m pitches would be best for the upper wall.
Descent: We rappelled and scrambled down the gully between Mudterm area and here. Primitive how I like it. If I went back I would rap the entire route leaving only webbing behind. One could also descend as per other routes on formation, West gully. Probably the easiest descent is to scramble east and go down a gully (class 2-3) that comes out near The Schoolyard.
Lower wall: Best climbed in 3 pitches at about 90'-110'. There are two "tiers" of big ledges between lower/upper wall. I included scrambling up to the second tier in my last pitch(150').
Upper wall: We climbed this in 3 pitches: P4-Climb up directly under the big corner to a belay on a decent ledge at about 40'. 5.4
P5- Up through the corner. Plenty of big holds and continuous protection options up to the crux where I went up left on the face instead of slithering up the flare. 150' 5.6
P6- Continue up the crack and follow the corner left and top out. 60'. 5.5
I suspect that 2 60m pitches would be best for the upper wall.
Descent: We rappelled and scrambled down the gully between Mudterm area and here. Primitive how I like it. If I went back I would rap the entire route leaving only webbing behind. One could also descend as per other routes on formation, West gully. Probably the easiest descent is to scramble east and go down a gully (class 2-3) that comes out near The Schoolyard.
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