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More like a route than a boulder problem, Extra Otis traverses the entire Black Hole from right to left.
Start on the jug at the far right end of the Black Hole. Downclimb into the Tendinitis Traverse, reverse the Breashear's Crack, and then continue left across the Black Hole using any holds to reach a good kneebar rest just before the Wisdom Simulator. Once you have recovered, make a reachy move to gain the starting holds of the Wisdom Simulator, and then grunt your way through a crimpy, body tension crux to easier, yet surprisingly pumpy terrain that ends when you reach a horizontal crack at the left end of the wall.
Although this traverse isn't much to look at, it's got awesome moves, and provides a great challenge. Plus, besides the initial downclimbing, Extra Otis can be safely worked without a spotter.
This boulder problem is located in the Black Hole.
A kneepad, and some crash pads.
|By doug rouse|
Jul 1, 2008
Greetings...FA. by Charlie Bentley...I believe that the problem is named after his dog. Anyway, one of many brutal, endurance pumpfests that exist. Try it with a pressure sensitve hook up to missle finish....
Nov 8, 2010
Last week I climbed a variation to Otis that takes the easiest path across the Black Hole, nothing is off, just don't touch the ground, right to left. I am sure its been climbed by the likes of Rufus or any of the other hard man/women locals, but since I have never heard of it, I have been calling it Easy Otis or Otis, the NASCAR edition V10 ish.
Here is a video of the beta:
Nov 8, 2010
FA was Charley Bentley (correct spelling), from a line from "Henry: Portrait of a Serial Killer":
"Plug it in, Otis."
If you've had the misfortune to see this film, then you'll know what that means....