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Routes in The Black Hole
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Air Jordan V5 6C |
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Air Lupus (submitted as Air Loopis) V8 7B |
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Breashears' Crack V2 5+ |
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Buttery Justice a.k.a. No Fences V10+ 7C+ |
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Center Route V10 7C+ |
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Clear the Runway! V4-5 6B+ |
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Crank Like an Egyptian aka.C.P.R. V8+ 7B+ |
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Cytogrinder V8 7B |
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Death by Drowning V8 7B |
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Down With Government Wisdom TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Extra Otis V11 8A |
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Full Wisdom aka Wisdom Simulator V7 7A+ |
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Government Issue V9-10 7C+ |
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Grape Ape V8 7B |
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Grindstone V10 7C+ |
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Head and Shoulders V10-11 8A |
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Helicopter V6 7A |
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Helicopter Direct Start V6 7A |
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Keeping Up With The Joneses V9 7C |
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Kwajh aka. Troll V9 7C |
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Magic Johnson V8 7B |
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McTwist V4+ 6B+ |
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Midnight Express (aka CJMD) V8 7B |
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Miss Clairol V8 7B |
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Missile V5 6C |
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Nuclear Warhead V9 7C |
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Pop Goes The Weasel V9 7C |
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Pressure Sensitive V8 7B |
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Revlon V6-7 7A+ |
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Space Jam V7 7A+ |
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Tendonitis Jordan V6 7A |
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Tendonitis Traverse V5 6C |
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Three-Quarter Otis 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V9-10 7C+ |
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Upper Wisdom V3+ 6A+ |
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Vascular Catastrophe TR 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Void, The V13 8B |
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| Type: | Boulder, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Charley Bentley |
| Page Views: | 3,534 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Feb 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
More like a route than a boulder problem, Extra Otis traverses the entire Black Hole from right to left.
Start on the jug at the far right end of the Black Hole. Downclimb into the Tendinitis Traverse, reverse the Breashear's Crack, and then continue left across the Black Hole using any holds to reach a good kneebar rest just before the Wisdom Simulator. Once you have recovered, make a reachy move to gain the starting holds of the Wisdom Simulator, and then grunt your way through a crimpy, body tension crux to easier, yet surprisingly pumpy terrain that ends when you reach a horizontal crack at the left end of the wall.
Although this traverse isn't much to look at, it's got awesome moves, and provides a great challenge. Plus, besides the initial downclimbing, Extra Otis can be safely worked without a spotter.
Start on the jug at the far right end of the Black Hole. Downclimb into the Tendinitis Traverse, reverse the Breashear's Crack, and then continue left across the Black Hole using any holds to reach a good kneebar rest just before the Wisdom Simulator. Once you have recovered, make a reachy move to gain the starting holds of the Wisdom Simulator, and then grunt your way through a crimpy, body tension crux to easier, yet surprisingly pumpy terrain that ends when you reach a horizontal crack at the left end of the wall.
Although this traverse isn't much to look at, it's got awesome moves, and provides a great challenge. Plus, besides the initial downclimbing, Extra Otis can be safely worked without a spotter.
Photos
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