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Leading up the fun corner that gives you a rest es...
A really clean and fun corner found above Dark Shadows, Peyote Power, etc., on Perception Tower. I've eyed this corner a number of times while guiding and finally had someone (Chris Chicoskie) who was interested in checking it out with me. I've heard from numerous people that it has been climbed before (during AMGA Rock Guide Exams), so I'm not claiming a first ascent. Also, it isn't so much a route, as it is a variation on a route. I just think it would be nice to put a name to this worthwhile variation to top out on the Mescalito.
If you happen to have a little energy left and psyche after climbing whatever you climbed to get here, you should really go for the Extra Credit.
The climbing itself starts out as finger jams/laybacking for 10 feet before a key hold allows you to pull up and rest. From here, off fingers/thin hands/laybacking lead for another 15 feet before another nice rest. A quick hand jam or two will bring you back into 20 feet of off finger/thin hands, before easing off.
This route is found on Perception Tower, which is the main ledge that many routes (most notably, Dark Shadows) finish on. When topping out, an obvious right facing corner is formed by a pillar leaning against the middle of the wall.
An anchor can be built above the corner just before topping out on the feature. From here, a second short pitch will lead East (towards Vegas) across the top of the pillar and down an easy slot/chimney to a nice ledge. By placing a directional, you can belay off your body with the pillar itself acting as the top rope anchor. Once all climbers are on the ledge, you can continue up and climber's left to connect back into the normal top-out for the Mescalito.
Whatever you used to get to the top of the route you climbed to get here will work. I placed gear to 2" while climbing, and found gear from 2" - 3" useful for the belay anchor.
BETA PHOTO: A shot of Extra Credit
Chris Chicoskie follows the clean corner, well, cl...
By Stone Nude
May 1, 2014
That looks fucking sick, cabron. Nice find!