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exposed core TR?
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By Will Copeland
Mar 23, 2011
view off the 4th belay

My rope finally exposed its core yesterday...I was planning on cutting it but I had an aquaintence tell me to simply wrap it in tape and just use it for TR. Seems like a bad idea but I wanted to hear feedback from those with more wisdom than myself. Thoughts?


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Mar 23, 2011
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Is your life worth a couple hundred bucks?

Get a new rope and save the old one for non-life-threatening activities. Or, if you climb in the gym, chop it up and use the pieces for lead ropes in the gym.

--Marc


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By Rick Blair
From Denver
Mar 23, 2011
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

If your belayer breaks or lowers you and that sheath gives, the core could slide through and they could drop you. Better be some damn strong adhesive on that tape.


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By Peter Stokes
From Them Thar Hills
Mar 23, 2011
Wall Street, Moab, UT

"Seems like a bad idea" is good way to put it


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By Roots
From Tustin, CA
Mar 23, 2011

If the core is showing then it's safe to assume other sections of the rope have probably deteriorated too. Have you run it through your hand to look for flat spots?


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By Will Copeland
Mar 23, 2011
view off the 4th belay

Roots wrote:
If the core is showing then it's safe to assume other sections of the rope have probably deteriorated too. Have you run it through your hand to look for flat spots?


the rope is overall in very good condition, there is one hourglass where i took a fall and i've only fallen on it three times. the sheath has simply worn through in one spot.


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By Kurt Burt
Mar 23, 2011
Portaledge belay top of pitch 3

I always lived by the saying if you have to ask... get a new one. This goes for ropes, wives, girlfriends, and food. Simple and makes life easy.

Kurtburt


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By slim
Administrator
Mar 23, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

using tape to hide a bad spot in a rope is a really bad idea, and pretty much every rigging/construction company that i have ever worked with or for would fire you for doing so on your first offense. one of the primary concerns is that you are then completely unable to have a visual clue to the state of the rope under the tape.

if somebody that i climbed with seriously recommended this to me, i would probably scratch them off of my 'partners' list, as it shows not only that they are an idiot, but that they also aren't too concerned about my well-being.


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By Jonathan Ward
From San Francisco
Mar 23, 2011
Me leading pitch 4 of Rewritten.

Slim is spot on.


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By Moof
From Portland, OR
Mar 23, 2011

Use tape only to limit fraying while bailing off whatever route caused the hole, then chop that section out of the rope once you get home.

If the core shot is near and end and the rest of the rope is still in good shape, chop it and use your new shorty rope per normal.

If you have an hourglass that is permanent, retire the rope. Full stop.

If you truly just wore down to the core, and it was not just one spot that abraded through, then you probably should have retired the rope long ago.


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By Jasmine Kall
Mar 23, 2011
Getting ready to climb!

Time for a nice rug!


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By Ice4life
From SLC, UT
Mar 23, 2011
GYM

I think I got an old piece of webbing that is faded and brittle, I use as a name tag for my luggage. You can use as part of the TR anchor if you want ;)


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By Jim Amidon
Mar 23, 2011
What ??

RUG..........

TRASH>>>>>>>>>>>>

TOWING CORD>>>>>>>>

NO FKING WAY USE THAT ROPE TO EVEN TR ON........


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By Tim Pegg
Mar 23, 2011
Me on Hallett Peak's 2nd Buttress.

The core is the load bearing part of your rope, and the sheath is to protect the core. If you've worn the sheath off, you will start wearing through its load bearing capacity. Period.

Get your favorite climbing store to cut the bad spots off, and use it as a short rope. For example, I now climb on a 59m rope because of some abrasion in a squeeze chimney.


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By Boodge Nomchompski
Mar 23, 2011
Ancient wall art

Reminds me of the old saying, "Duct tape fixes everything...except broke ass climbing ropes."


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By Jarek
Mar 23, 2011

Some 20 years ago we used to tape ropes for gym climbing (leading) in Eastern Europe. The reason? We couldn't afford new ropes. Amazingly the ropes never broke, even after very extensive over-use an repetitive taping.

My advise, don't push your luck. Get a new rope. Be smart, climb safe. Cut and dispose the old rope, or you will be constantly tempted to use it.


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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 27, 2011
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outlets.  Long, lovely, mellow route.  Well protected even.  My favorite lead from the trip.

Kurt Burt wrote:
I always lived by the saying if you have to ask... get a new one. This goes for ropes, wives, girlfriends, and food. Simple and makes life easy. Kurtburt


I like this philosophy. :^)


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By Luke W.
From Prescott
Mar 27, 2011
Avi

How does the core look? If its in nice condition cant you get it re-sheathed?


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By Yarp
Mar 27, 2011

Luke W. wrote:
How does the core look? If its in nice condition cant you get it re-sheathed?


classic


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By Greg Howland
Mar 27, 2011
The Nose

If that whole resheathing idea doesn't work you can always cut the core shot out of the rope and just tie it back together with a Euro Death Knot, backed up of course. You can also shorten one side of the rope so your core shot becomes the only middle mark that will get more obvious with time.


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By mattnorville
Mar 27, 2011
Ship's Prow.

yeah tape this
yeah tape this


Tape this?


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By Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
Mar 27, 2011
Belay at top of P3, "Three Tiers" Ten Mile Canyon. 11/30/12

"when in doubt, throw it out"

words to live by.


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By jack s.
From Kamloops, BC
Mar 28, 2011
Mean Green P2

Bail Cord!

Cut out the core shot part of the rope, of course before bailing on it.


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By gary s.
From Boulder, CO
Mar 28, 2011

hahahahaha. really?


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Mar 28, 2011
El Chorro

That's what you do if you're stuck somewhere and your life depends on using your rope. That's not what you do if you cored your rope and are too cheap to get a new one for the crag.


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By mattnorville
Mar 28, 2011
Ship's Prow.

It was knda close to the the end on my 70m so I cut it. Lost about 10 meters after the cutting it :(


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