Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
exposed core TR?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Mar 23, 2011
view off the 4th belay
My rope finally exposed its core yesterday...I was planning on cutting it but I had an aquaintence tell me to simply wrap it in tape and just use it for TR. Seems like a bad idea but I wanted to hear feedback from those with more wisdom than myself. Thoughts? Will Copeland
Joined Aug 18, 2009
91 points
Mar 23, 2011
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
Is your life worth a couple hundred bucks?

Get a new rope and save the old one for non-life-threatening activities. Or, if you climb in the gym, chop it up and use the pieces for lead ropes in the gym.

--Marc
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Mar 23, 2011
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
If your belayer breaks or lowers you and that sheath gives, the core could slide through and they could drop you. Better be some damn strong adhesive on that tape. Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
270 points
Mar 23, 2011
Wall Street, Moab, UT
"Seems like a bad idea" is good way to put it Peter Stokes
From Them Thar Hills
Joined Apr 30, 2009
152 points
Mar 23, 2011
If the core is showing then it's safe to assume other sections of the rope have probably deteriorated too. Have you run it through your hand to look for flat spots? Roots
From Tustin, CA
Joined Dec 15, 2010
26 points
Mar 23, 2011
view off the 4th belay
Roots wrote:
If the core is showing then it's safe to assume other sections of the rope have probably deteriorated too. Have you run it through your hand to look for flat spots?


the rope is overall in very good condition, there is one hourglass where i took a fall and i've only fallen on it three times. the sheath has simply worn through in one spot.
Will Copeland
Joined Aug 18, 2009
91 points
Mar 23, 2011
Portaledge belay top of pitch 3
I always lived by the saying if you have to ask... get a new one. This goes for ropes, wives, girlfriends, and food. Simple and makes life easy.

Kurtburt
Kurt Burt
Joined Apr 21, 2009
119 points
Administrator
Mar 23, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
using tape to hide a bad spot in a rope is a really bad idea, and pretty much every rigging/construction company that i have ever worked with or for would fire you for doing so on your first offense. one of the primary concerns is that you are then completely unable to have a visual clue to the state of the rope under the tape.

if somebody that i climbed with seriously recommended this to me, i would probably scratch them off of my 'partners' list, as it shows not only that they are an idiot, but that they also aren't too concerned about my well-being.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,053 points
Mar 23, 2011
Me leading pitch 4 of Rewritten.
Slim is spot on. Jonathan Ward
From San Francisco
Joined May 23, 2010
72 points
Mar 23, 2011
Use tape only to limit fraying while bailing off whatever route caused the hole, then chop that section out of the rope once you get home.

If the core shot is near and end and the rest of the rope is still in good shape, chop it and use your new shorty rope per normal.

If you have an hourglass that is permanent, retire the rope. Full stop.

If you truly just wore down to the core, and it was not just one spot that abraded through, then you probably should have retired the rope long ago.
Moof
From Portland, OR
Joined Dec 11, 2007
11 points
Mar 23, 2011
Getting ready to climb!
Time for a nice rug! Jasmine Kall
Joined Nov 7, 2008
50 points
Mar 23, 2011
GYM
I think I got an old piece of webbing that is faded and brittle, I use as a name tag for my luggage. You can use as part of the TR anchor if you want ;) Ice4life
From SLC, UT
Joined Nov 4, 2010
87 points
Mar 23, 2011
J TREE
RUG..........

TRASH>>>>>>>>>>>>

TOWING CORD>>>>>>>>

NO FKING WAY USE THAT ROPE TO EVEN TR ON........
Jim Amidon
Joined Jun 12, 2001
927 points
Mar 23, 2011
Me on Hallett Peak's 2nd Buttress.
The core is the load bearing part of your rope, and the sheath is to protect the core. If you've worn the sheath off, you will start wearing through its load bearing capacity. Period.

Get your favorite climbing store to cut the bad spots off, and use it as a short rope. For example, I now climb on a 59m rope because of some abrasion in a squeeze chimney.
Tim Pegg
Joined Dec 12, 2009
8 points
Mar 23, 2011
Ancient wall art
Reminds me of the old saying, "Duct tape fixes everything...except broke ass climbing ropes." Boodge Nomchompski
Joined Apr 30, 2007
579 points
Mar 23, 2011
Some 20 years ago we used to tape ropes for gym climbing (leading) in Eastern Europe. The reason? We couldn't afford new ropes. Amazingly the ropes never broke, even after very extensive over-use an repetitive taping.

My advise, don't push your luck. Get a new rope. Be smart, climb safe. Cut and dispose the old rope, or you will be constantly tempted to use it.
Jarek
Joined Sep 23, 2010
0 points
Mar 27, 2011
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outl...
Kurt Burt wrote:
I always lived by the saying if you have to ask... get a new one. This goes for ropes, wives, girlfriends, and food. Simple and makes life easy. Kurtburt


I like this philosophy. :^)
KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Nov 16, 2007
137 points
Mar 27, 2011
Avi
How does the core look? If its in nice condition cant you get it re-sheathed? Luke W.
From Prescott
Joined Jan 17, 2009
277 points
Mar 27, 2011
Luke W. wrote:
How does the core look? If its in nice condition cant you get it re-sheathed?


classic
Yarp
Joined Jan 16, 2011
6 points
Mar 27, 2011
The Nose
If that whole resheathing idea doesn't work you can always cut the core shot out of the rope and just tie it back together with a Euro Death Knot, backed up of course. You can also shorten one side of the rope so your core shot becomes the only middle mark that will get more obvious with time. Greg Howland
Joined Jan 10, 2009
164 points
Mar 27, 2011
Ship's Prow.
yeah tape this
yeah tape this


Tape this?
mattnorville
Joined Oct 9, 2007
122 points
Mar 27, 2011
Climbing above Black Lake
"when in doubt, throw it out"

words to live by.
Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
Joined May 21, 2007
147 points
Mar 28, 2011
Mean Green P2
Bail Cord!

Cut out the core shot part of the rope, of course before bailing on it.
jack s.
From Kamloops, BC
Joined Jan 11, 2011
12 points
Mar 28, 2011
hahahahaha. really? gary s.
From Boulder, CO
Joined Aug 20, 2009
0 points
Administrator
Mar 28, 2011
El Chorro
That's what you do if you're stuck somewhere and your life depends on using your rope. That's not what you do if you cored your rope and are too cheap to get a new one for the crag. Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Mar 28, 2011
Ship's Prow.
It was knda close to the the end on my 70m so I cut it. Lost about 10 meters after the cutting it :( mattnorville
Joined Oct 9, 2007
122 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!