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Exposed Cleavage 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 2,219
Submitted By: keredea on Aug 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.8 route with approximate bolt and anchor...

Description 

The crux is definitely the chimney at the beginning. It's hard to find a hold, but they are there. After that it is pretty easy with a little stemming depending on your style and some micro-edging if you want to challenge yourself a bit.

Location 

This route is the chimney right next to the roof that faces west on the main face. See the picture for approximate bolt and anchor positions as well as the route itself.

Protection 

Six bolts to 2 new hanger and ring anchors at the top. The first bolt is pretty scary as you will fall a lot if you're not steady on your feet and stay into the wall. The second is a bit crazy as well, as the wall pushes you away and there are few handholds in the chimney. From there the rest are pretty straightforward.

Please remember to rap down or use a bail-biner as the anchors are new!


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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Dec 11, 2007

Added correct name and FA info per Darren Knezek.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Mar 26, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think the crux for me was in the chimney part near the bottom of the climb. Fun climb. Mostly good holds. Airy near the top.
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I thought this climb was really fun. I agree the crux is probably getting to the second bolt, it's a bit of a toughie. I actually thought in some ways this climb was harder to follow than to lead for some reason. It gets kind of chossy when you get past the big crack with a few plants, and my climbing partner actually got stung by one of the many hornets buzzing around there, but it was a really fun climb. I think it's harder than just a 5.8(5.8+ or 5.9 I thought) but maybe it's just because I'm not very good. Would not be a good climb to start leading on, as that first bolt is a little nerve wracking.
By Jeff Jones
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Nov 15, 2008

I went up with the friend of mine that got me into climbing. I thought this would be a cake walk at 5.8. As I was climbing, I felt like I should reevaluate my climbing capability. The chimney was fun but definitely the crux but I sure loved the exposure up high. It was more than what I was expecting (very deceiving). Getting to the first bolt is a little scary though (DON'T FALL!).
By Christopher Miller
Aug 14, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route! I agree that the crux is the second bolt, i kinda just jammed my whole shoulder in the chimney to clip it...never used a full body jam before. Well worth doing though!
By David Hamblin
Nov 6, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

A few people say the 2nd bolt is the crux, but, there is a hold 2 feet above the first draw in the huge crack. You can place your hand on the top of this fist size hold, but, if you grab onto it side hold style you can use you leverage to swing out and upward. ( with your left foot on the left wall as high as you can place it also) I rate this route a 5 10. It is extemely slabby and drawn out near the top. It could use one more bolt between the 5th and 6th bolt. Take a fall after the 5th bolt and your looking at some pain.
By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Aug 2, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I'm with David, the 2nd bolt isnt that hard to get to, but the features on the slaby part of the climb are pretty tough. I thought they were a little too spaced and too thin for the 5.8 grade.
By Canyon Copa
Jun 1, 2012

The chimney section is fun and different, definitely the crux for me. First timers will have a little trouble with the technique in the chimney, but can do it with some guidance.