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East End Wall
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Experimental Forrest T 
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Helix T 
Rapture T 

Experimental Forrest 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool, and Wade Forrest on the direct finish
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 288
Submitted By: Tradoholic on May 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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James Q Martin moving into the airy .10+ direct fi...

Description 

Located right of Rapture this starts with a nice hand crack (one bolt, 5.9) then traverses left to a boulder problem with two bolts to a short juggy finish. Alternatively, you can make this 5.9 by continuing straight up after the hand crack terminates.


Location 

Climbers right of Rapture, rap in to an inside corner with a bolted belay. From the top there's a prow of rock sticking out, rap from the left side for Experimental Forrest (if looking out into the canyon) and the right side for Rapture.


Protection 

Three bolts, a few hand size pieces and maybe a purple TCU to protect the traverse.



Photos of Experimental Forrest Slideshow Add Photo
Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Topo.
Kevin P., cleaning it up.
Kevin P., cleaning it up.
James, setting up for a big, reachy move right.
James, setting up for a big, reachy move right.
James, working through the 5.9 hand crack section.
James, working through the 5.9 hand crack section.
The start.
BETA PHOTO: The start.
Comments on Experimental Forrest Add Comment
Show which comments
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 30, 2012

A good, physical line with an exciting finish.

By Wade Forrest
May 31, 2012

I used a grey ghost with a purple tcu slotted on top of it to protect the traverse, makes it pretty bomber. I spent alot of time removing death blocks from the top of the pillar but did not clean what is referred to as the alternate finish. So heads up if choosing that path. I took the route left in order to create a clean, safe & varied experience. Thanks for posting!

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 31, 2012

'Grey ghost' ha! Love it

By Tradoholic
May 31, 2012

Yes, the easy finish had some potential loose stuff, take care when going that way.

Looks like some pretty sweet thin crack lines in between this and Rapture, any info on those?