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Experience with spalled rock

Original Post
Tom Rangitsch · · Lander, Wy · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,699

Just read through the Cochiti Mesa thread about the fire from 2011 and how it has effected the rock so negatively. We had a similar experience here in Lander as a fire raged through the Little Popo Agie canyon about 10 years ago, severely damaging part of a cliff that was just being developed. Many of the holds spalled due to super heating, a couple of ropes and drills were destroyed, and everyone thought that the cliff was ruined forever.

I checked the wall out last year and found it to be pretty interesting. Many of the edges are gone, but the pockets remain. There are new features that have been uncovered from flakes breaking off. There are also hollow sections of cliff that don't seem to be in danger of breaking off, but probably would not hold a bolt. This season, I have started putting in some routes and it has been slow going. I have had to be really careful with bolt placement due to the hollow sections, but I have one route entirely finished and another started. I do think that we will be able to resurrect the cliff and have some good routes. My opinion is that if the bolts are in solid rock and there are enough remaining pockets and features to link into a route, then things should be fine.

I was wondering how much experience folks have had in similar situations. I realize this must vary quite a bit in regards to rock type, heat of the fire, time elapsed from the fire, etc. My biggest concern is for continued deterioration of the cliff or for the hardware that I place to be suspect. Any thoughts?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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