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Experience with REI anchorbuilding classes?

Original Post
bbbb Boon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

Hi all,

Long story short, I am trying to learn gear placements and anchor building so I can start trad climbing safely. I think I should mention my skill level: I can lead sport, clean anchors, and know how to rappel.

Looking for classes I stumbled upon some REI classes, anyone have experience with these? Are they worth taking? Do you guys have others that you would recommend?

Thanks

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191

We travel, so I have been to many different REI's. Some have extremely knowledgeable folks, some not so much. So if you have had good experiences at your REI, you have the time and money, I'd go for it.

I had an AMGA guide recommend the book "Rock Climbing Anchors" by Crag Luebben. Lists for $20. I have yet to find anyone that totally disagrees with what is in this book, lots of ideas on how to improve after that, but it appears to be a good starting point.

The other thing that I did was grab a 2x10 plank about three feet long, then placed a number of eyebolts on it in a random pattern. This I used to simulate where trad would be placed in odd and off center positions. Then I practiced building ERNST anchors until I had the knots and equalization thing down. I practiced with rope, web, and cordellette so that I could build an anchor with anything at hand.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

REI has done a pretty good job of stepping up their outdoor instructional courses in the last several years. I've meet a few folks who took their courses and they were all pretty competent climbers, and for the value, I would think that the course is worth it.

Colin Porter · · Stockholm, SE · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 5

So REI's secret (or not so secret) is that they often use other guides under their brand name. Essentially a "private label" guide who has a full-time job with another service. These guides aren't allowed to talk to their clients about who they "actually" work for, and sport REI gear head to toe. The one's I've encountered are highly qualified.

Merritt King · · Long Beach, Ca · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

I did the anchor building class. It was at Stony Point and all we did was build anchors. It really had nothing to do with "trad". It was more for top roping. Building anchors off natural protection and bolts. Its a good class if you know nothing or have read nothing about building anchors. If i was to do it again i would have done an intro class with Vertical Adventures.

vertical-adventures.com/

I was already competent in build anchors off bolts and leading sport. I took the two day leading class and the instructor Tony Grice was really solid.

Learned placing gear, building anchors with gear, stances, belaying, muti pitch leading and info.

By far the best investment...even more than my ropes.

bbbb Boon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

Thanks for the info all :)

ryan00davis Davis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

I took the REI Anchors class, It was about how to safely place gear, and they did refer things a bit to building top rope anchors with gear. They ended the class with rappelling off of bolts. There was zero climbing during the class.

I thought it was useful, the guide appeared very knowledgeable, but i don't have other outdoor classes to compare to.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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