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 ADVANCED
Window Rock - East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Destroy all Planets T,S 
Drunken Cowboy T 
Expect No Mercy T 
Failure to Launch T 
Good Times T 
Juniper Jam T 
Masochist Crack T 
One Step Beyond TR 
Pure Pleasure T 

Expect No Mercy 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gene Smith, circa 1986
Page Views: 1,700
Submitted By: kBobby on Jun 24, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Expect no mercy!

Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>>

Description 

In the center of the east face on Window Rock is a fist crack that comes down into a large alcove. This is Expect No Mercy. Climb the steep face past a couple of bolts to the crack. Pull through this pumpy fist crack roof and jam to the two-bolt anchor.

Protection 

Two (or three?) draws, #3 Camalot, #3.5 Camalot (optional), #2 Camalot, a couple of long slings for the larger cams.


Photos of Expect No Mercy Slideshow Add Photo
The technical crux is getting above the lip, it is...
The technical crux is getting above the lip, it is...
It is easier if you avoid the crack at the lip.
It is easier if you avoid the crack at the lip.
Psyched to be above the lip...
Psyched to be above the lip...

Comments on Expect No Mercy Add Comment
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By Nathan Fisher
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

We felt it was easier to go right of the crack, using the finger rail. Then, jam a left hand jam and pop it. Good short route, but a rope eater.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Nice route and honestly the only one we did on the eastside. Summer days included wasps in the crack making upward progress tentative. Bouldery start with positive holds. Pulling the roof head-on was a bit of a problem (hung - dang!). If you don't have the juice to pull through using the hand crack look for positive holds to the left making it much easier. The handcrack above is fun but easy. 2 bolts, gear to 3 1/2", chain anchors.
By Brian in SLC
Aug 20, 2007

Dude(-ette)! You're givin' away key onsite beta here. For shame! I won me a steak dinner betting a partner he couldn't onsite that thing (and remained silent when he Z clipped the bolts, hee hee, pure evil).

The old anchor to this route used to be a sling stickin' out of the crack attached to something. That something, when dug out, turned out to be an old Dolt nut. Pretty cool!
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Aug 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I did the crack straight on and thought it was jingus™™. Had a heel hook and mucho wiggling to get over the "roof" while pulling on cupped hands and fists. 10b? Ok.... for 5.12 leaders. I was told that if I pitched I might have decked too.... kickAssss™ Upper crack is trivial.
By Brian in SLC
Aug 20, 2007

A cam or two, an attentive belay, and a bit of your supreme flexibility should work just fine...

Doesn't the City have a rep as being over graded?
By Adam Floyd
From: Las Vegas
May 22, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Super fun, can be stitched up with a #3, 2, 1 New style camalot. Great crimps and jugs. 2 bolts to begin. Fist jam heel hook, who knew? Loved the heel hook in big shoes, swimmy.
By CHopwood
From: Boise, ID
Jun 15, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This route looks intimidating but if you don't have the cams, I wouldn't worry about bringing them; this is a sport climb. The 2 bolts only protect the first 20 feet of climb, but that's all you need to pull all the moves up the face and over the roof. It is very well protected. The wall is steep and the holds are large and very very sharp. After climbing other routes on this face, I doubt the slab above the roof is even 5.6.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Oct 20, 2012

A #3, 2, and 1 is perfect advise.
Although you don't need the crack, I was glad to get a jam. But I'd recommend a little tape on the right hand... My skin got no mercy.
By dave bingham
Sep 22, 2013

First ascent by New York climber Gene Smith around 86', not Lowe.