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 ADVANCED
South Summit Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Here Now T 
Center Thumb T 
Da Black and Gold T 
Expanding Man T 
Free Mexican Air Force T 
Gold Wall T 
Great Escape, The T 
Heart of Gold T 
Inner Vision T 
Left Thumb T 
P-38 T 
Right Thumb T 
Taivallista T 

Expanding Man 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alexis Kelner, Dick Bell & Calvin Giddings in 1958 FFA Mark Ward & Randy Wright 1979
Season: Summer
Page Views: 615
Submitted By: bsmoot on Oct 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This was the first route done up the main west side of Lone Peak.

-P1 Climb blocky steps for 150' to a to a belay below a steep section of the corner.
-P2 A clean hidden hand crack on the steep right wall provides passage here (5.9-).
-P3 & 4 Climb the corner using lots of stemming moves. We encountered some old pins here on our ascent(1983). The last pitch joins The Great Escape.

If you compare all of the routes on the south side of the summit wall, this climb is one of better lines to do...fun climbing.

Location 

Ascends the prominent corner about 75' left of The Great Escape.

Protection 

Standard Free Rack


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By Kurt Howes
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

of some historical value for it being one of, if not the first (?) lines on the west side of Lone Peak, it's worth looking at, but I suggest climbing it only if you've done most everything else in the cirque. Seems like we were the first party in 15 or 20 years to get on it; dull, uninspiring line for the sake of making a line. That said, there were about 45 feet of nice moves among the nearly 400 total feet. Bring a mask for the terrible smell of those flowers, a tool to remove debris hiding spots for pro, tape gloves for the sharp lichen filled cracks and a barrel of lowered expectations. But alas, I exaggerate. One star.
By James Garrett
Jul 3, 2012

Gee Kurt!::)) Franziska and I had such an adventure on this thing years ago I had to "one-star" you up. Yes, the flowers! Don't think we will ever forget the joy of attaining the top out on EM. The stemming alone is unique. Thanks for the memories!