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Fern Point - Party Buttress
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Exoduster 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lisa and Eric Horst
Page Views: 2,517
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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High Steppin' into the crux of Exoduster.

Description 

This route stay dry, which as NRG climbers know is very rare for a climb of this grade.

I first attempted this route in the middle of July(a 95 degree day), my first day in the NRG. As a 5.11 climber I didn't think it would be an issue jumping on a 5.10 to warm up some. Turns out that NRG climbing is way different than Rumney climbing and I was promtly shut down.

After another month of climbing in the NRG I tried the route again, this time it went without any trouble and I couldn't tell where the crux was...weird experience.

This climb is popular and it deserves it.

Climb the face up pockets to a thin rail you have to layback and do a long move up to a crimp and continue up easier ground to the anchors.

Location 

Orange face under big roof in the middle of the Fern Point Cirque.

Protection 

4 Bolts to Cold-Shuts (rusted and nasty looking).


Photos of Exoduster Slideshow Add Photo
Elizabeth looking cool and composed as usual on ex...
Elizabeth looking cool and composed as usual on ex...
Jeff and Bryan comparing notes on Exoduster and Pr...
Jeff and Bryan comparing notes on Exoduster and Pr...
Nick moving through the crux
Nick moving through the crux

Comments on Exoduster Add Comment
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By Punter Brewster
May 3, 2009

Excellent Route. I would advise that the beta above is not neccessarily the easiest and most direct pull through the crux for everyone, but works. I won't give it away, other than to hint that the throw lands you on the crimp by the bolt above the rail. Text book new reachin'.
By Laura Hahn
From: Acme, PA
Nov 5, 2009

I did this route on a humid day in August 06. There was so much chalk on the holds, it was straightup greasy. Would not recommend doing in similar conditions
By Greg Sudlow
From: PA
May 10, 2010

Route is over chalked and really not that great. Sees a lot of traffic since it is one of the few 5.10 sport routes in the area.
By Befta
From: Golden, CO
Nov 25, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Awesome route!! I really enjoyed it. Fun, long moves with nice rock. It is pretty chalked though. The crux rail is covered in white!!
By S. Neoh
Nov 27, 2010

Ha-ha, this route was all chalked up the first time I came across it. And that was back in 1992! :)
It is an OK route, there are better mid 5.10 routes to be climbed elsewhere in the area - over at Central Endless, Kaymoor, Sandstonia, Summersville Lake, just to name a few.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 28, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awkward climbing, undeservedly popular.
By Cragmama
From: North Carolina
Dec 12, 2011

I'm assuming this route is popular b/c its a bolted moderate. The climbing was okay, but the wall was ridiculously overchalked and grimy.
By Derrick W
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 9, 2012

This route is overrated. It is also protectable with gear if your competent and solid at the grade.
By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Dec 10, 2013

I thought this route had beautiful movement and awesome, fun holds on a clean, steep face. Lots of haters out there seem to disagree but I thought it kicked ass! The kind of climb that gym setters everywhere try to emulate. Super safe falls, good clip stances, interesting sequences. True there may be better 5.10 sport routes at the New but it's a world class area and this climb stands out even here.

It is pretty polished though.
By jonalexander
May 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

fun route. crux sequence can be avoided by bumping the left hand to the second crimp and avoiding the caked, shallow holds on the right.