|Fern Point - Party Buttress
This route stay dry, which as NRG climbers know is very rare for a climb of this grade.
I first attempted this route in the middle of July(a 95 degree day), my first day in the NRG. As a 5.11 climber I didn't think it would be an issue jumping on a 5.10 to warm up some. Turns out that NRG climbing is way different than Rumney climbing and I was promtly shut down.
After another month of climbing in the NRG I tried the route again, this time it went without any trouble and I couldn't tell where the crux was...weird experience.
This climb is popular and it deserves it.
Climb the face up pockets to a thin rail you have to layback and do a long move up to a crimp and continue up easier ground to the anchors.
Orange face under big roof in the middle of the Fern Point Cirque.
4 Bolts to Cold-Shuts (rusted and nasty looking).
|By Punter Brewster|
May 3, 2009
Excellent Route. I would advise that the beta above is not neccessarily the easiest and most direct pull through the crux for everyone, but works. I won't give it away, other than to hint that the throw lands you on the crimp by the bolt above the rail. Text book new reachin'.
|By Laura Hahn|
From: Acme, PA
Nov 5, 2009
I did this route on a humid day in August 06. There was so much chalk on the holds, it was straightup greasy. Would not recommend doing in similar conditions
|By Greg Sudlow|
May 10, 2010
Route is over chalked and really not that great. Sees a lot of traffic since it is one of the few 5.10 sport routes in the area.
|By Caleb Efta|
From: Golden, CO
Nov 25, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Awesome route!! I really enjoyed it. Fun, long moves with nice rock. It is pretty chalked though. The crux rail is covered in white!!
|By S. Neoh|
Nov 27, 2010
Ha-ha, this route was all chalked up the first time I came across it. And that was back in 1992! :)
It is an OK route, there are better mid 5.10 routes to be climbed elsewhere in the area - over at Central Endless, Kaymoor, Sandstonia, Summersville Lake, just to name a few.
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 28, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Awkward climbing, undeservedly popular.
From: North Carolina
Dec 12, 2011
I'm assuming this route is popular b/c its a bolted moderate. The climbing was okay, but the wall was ridiculously overchalked and grimy.
|By Derrick W|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 9, 2012
This route is overrated. It is also protectable with gear if your competent and solid at the grade.
|By Eric Chabot|
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Dec 10, 2013
I thought this route had beautiful movement and awesome, fun holds on a clean, steep face. Lots of haters out there seem to disagree but I thought it kicked ass! The kind of climb that gym setters everywhere try to emulate. Super safe falls, good clip stances, interesting sequences. True there may be better 5.10 sport routes at the New but it's a world class area and this climb stands out even here.
It is pretty polished though.