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Fern Point - Party Buttress
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Eat My Dust S 
Exoduster S 
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Exoduster 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lisa and Eric Horst
Page Views: 2,673
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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High Steppin' into the crux of Exoduster.

Description 

This route stays dry, which as NRG climbers know is very rare for a climb of this grade.

This climb is popular and it deserves it.

Climb the face up pockets to a thin rail you have to layback and do a long move up to a crimp and continue up easier ground to the anchors.

Location 

Orange face under big roof in the middle of the Fern Point Cirque.

Protection 

4 Bolts to Cold-Shuts (rusted and nasty looking).


Photos of Exoduster Slideshow Add Photo
Elizabeth looking cool and composed as usual on ex...
Elizabeth looking cool and composed as usual on ex...
Jeff and Bryan comparing notes on Exoduster and Pr...
Jeff and Bryan comparing notes on Exoduster and Pr...
Nick moving through the crux
Nick moving through the crux
Nearing the anchors
Nearing the anchors

Comments on Exoduster Add Comment
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By Jacob Sustrich 1
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Lots of fun. Crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, if you've got little fingers it might be a bit easier, but I had to stand up and fiddle around with a double undercling to make the next move (go with your right, I went with left and barely stuck the move after a barndoor cause I'm an idiot). The diagonal, shallow rail is a bit hard to work with but there are better spots - feel it out if you can. Hitting the "oh thank god" pocket above it is nice.

I think it's certainly worth climbing due it's grade/dryness. Pretty pumpy, I enjoyed it.
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