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Exit Strategy S 

Exit Strategy 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Curries, Mike McCabe, Louise Wu 6/2004
Page Views: 193
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on May 30, 2005

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Description 

There us one start for the two rightmost climbs, Exit Strategy and Pre-Emptive Strike (5.10c) and the first 2 bolts are shared between the routes. The first bolt protects the intitial sequence, which is about 5.10a, and very fun.

Run out about 20 feet to a large flake system where gear is optional. Matle the flake in a fun 5.8 move, and clip your final easy bolting stance. Exit Strategy diverges from Pre-Emptive Strike here by moving onto the left section of the bolts. 4 really rough bolts later through excellent gently overhung micro pinch face climbing, once final reachy move awaits, which moves from shit holds to a huge jug on the arete that seems just out of reach. clip the last bolt, mantle on nothing, and lower off.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear optional on the initial 45 foot runout, 1 - 2 pieces (and slings!) in the 1 1/2" - 2 1/2" range.


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