This route is near the center of the face. First move is a high step lieback and mantle to a bolt. A bit unnerving for those not used to the old school Josh routes. Continue up past 3 bolts to a false summit slab. (The route actually climbs to the right and more directly than what the Vogel guide shows). From the false summit slab, clip an ancient 1/4" bolt and boulder to the summit.
Anchors are beneath a small summit boulder in front of the large "Ballbearings under foot" boulder. Downclimb to the south (right when looking at wall) to a tree. Rap 80' to ground from tree.
Camalots 1-3 for anchors (or medium/large stoppers).
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Dec 7, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ancient death bolts and hangers from the first ascent on this route December 2008.
|By Adam Kimmerly|
May 9, 2011
1/4" button-heads with homemade aluminum hangers. They at least look halfway decent (not rusty, and the aluminum hangers aren't elongated or loose) but I sure didn't want to test any of them. The start requires a cheat stone unless you're really tall, and it kind of contrived and silly. The rest of the climbing is decently fun and flows well until the 4th bolt which is in a great spot to provide some hefty rope drag and not really protect you at all for the last bouldery moves to the summit. I wonder if this was intended to be the end of the route? I skipped the bolt, climbing right onto easier ground to a gear anchor above. The rock is decent considering how little traffic this line likely gets. A rappel from the boulder at the top (slings underneath) with a single 60m rope gets you back to the base of the route. A 50m won't.