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 ADVANCED
Derrydale Cliff
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L to R R to L Alpha
Elephant in the Room T,S 
Exilis Dihedral T,S 
Grand Old Pachyderm S 
Mammoth Poaching S 
Mowgli Walk S 

Exilis Dihedral 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (August 2008)
Page Views: 1,277
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 15, 2008

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Gloria G. of LA in the crux of Exilis Dihedral

Description 

Exilis Dihedral climbs the most striking feature on the cliff--a large, left-facing dihedral in the center of the formation.

Delicate slab climbing past three bolts (crux) leads to the dihedral. Laybacking and stemming deposits you at the top of the dihedral on a large ledge. A few easy fifth-class moves take you over the final bulge to a rap anchor on a spacious ledge.


Location 

The dihedral is located almost in the dead-center of the wall. Scramble up the loose hillside directly below the dihedral to access the start.


Protection 

Three bolts (all 1/2" sleeve bolts), gear from a #0 TCU up to 2-1/2"



Photos of Exilis Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Topo for Exilis Dihedral (5.9) at Derrydale Crag.
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Exilis Dihedral (5.9) at Derrydale Crag.
Matthew Fienup on the FA of Exilis Dihedral at Derrydale Cliff.
Matthew Fienup on the FA of Exilis Dihedral at Der...
Marisa Fienup climbs Exilis Dihedral, at Derrydale Cliff.
Marisa Fienup climbs Exilis Dihedral, at Derrydale...
Second lead ascent of Exilis Dihedral, August 14, 2008.
Second lead ascent of Exilis Dihedral, August 14, ...
Amparo Chaney of Ventura in the crux of Exilis Dihedral
Amparo Chaney of Ventura in the crux of Exilis Dih...
Placing bolts on Exilis Dihedral, August 14, 2008.
Placing bolts on Exilis Dihedral, August 14, 2008.
Gloria G. of LA exiting the dihedral of Exilis Dihedral
Gloria G. of LA exiting the dihedral of Exilis Dih...
Amparo Chaney of Ventura entering the crux of Exilis Dihedral
Amparo Chaney of Ventura entering the crux of Exil...
Marisa Fienup nears the top of the dihedral.  Exilis Dihedral, Derrydale Cliff.
Marisa Fienup nears the top of the dihedral. Exil...
Comments on Exilis Dihedral Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 17, 2008

Mammuthus exilis

By Rob Chaney
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed this on 4/23/2009 what a great route nice moves,crimpy slab, blancy, lye back, stemming and even a little mantelish. Fun!
I used a BD #10 stopper at the bottom of the crack and A OP #2 link cam in the middle of the crack.

By Richard Shore
Jan 8, 2010

excellent slab section at the base! The dihedral section is easy, but gear is not very good. I found one good slot at the very base of the dihedral for a stopper/small TCU, and after that the crack is flared for the next 20+ feet. Large offset nuts, or maybe a link cam would help, but if you're comfortable running it out (like I did), DO IT!