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 ADVANCED
East Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Babyback T 
Edgemaster S 
Everpresent Lane T 
Exile S 
Fluorescent Gray T,S 
Fountain of Youth T,S 
Galactic Warrior T 
Haywire T 
Ilga Grimpeur S 
Iron Cross T,S 
Kent's Krack T,TR 
Knack, The T 
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 
Superguide T 
Unity T 

Exile 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brett Ruckman et al
Page Views: 1,257
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001

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  • Description 

    Locate the gap between Fiddle Head and the Upper Ridge and check out the east facing wall, this is Exile...Four bolts ascend the steep slab start on rock that, at first inspection, appears to be totally devoid of holds. Once at the third bolt you will realize that its only mostly devoid of holds. Do a trick reach move, clip bolt 4 and shake out at the rest(11c). Power up through the next 2 bolts (crux) clip the pin and go to the anchor...Bad rope drag when lowering!!!

    Protection 

    6 bolts, 1 peg, .5 Tri Cam (or equivelant optional between #4+5), 2 bolt anchor (set way far back).


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