Exile  5.12a/b

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Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12a/b [details] FA:  Brett Ruckman et al Submitted By:  Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa Details. In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

Locate the gap between Fiddle Head and the Upper Ridge and check out the east facing wall, this is Exile...Four bolts ascend the steep slab start on rock that, at first inspection, appears to be totally devoid of holds. Once at the third bolt you will realize that its only mostly devoid of holds. Do a trick reach move, clip bolt 4 and shake out at the rest(11c). Power up through the next 2 bolts (crux) clip the pin and go to the anchor...Bad rope drag when lowering!!!

Protection 

6 bolts, 1 peg, .5 Tri Cam (or equivelant optional between #4+5), 2 bolt anchor (set way far back).