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THE EGG. The route Exhilaration goes right up the ...
Overhanging bolted route.
Located on the East side of "The Egg" formation. Access from inside the Corridor. Obvious overhanging line. Clearly bolted. Chain anchor to get down from the top.
|By Michael Bartosek|
From: Los Angeles
Jun 20, 2010
This route has a lot of choss in the lower section and holds break often. There is a pretty large flake around the 3-4 or 4-5 bolt that is likely to break in the near future. Be wary on belay!
Otherswise, a superfun route.
Jan 24, 2011
Climbed on this route Sunday 1/23/11. The bolt before the crux / overhang is dangerously loose. Seems that a lot of people fall on this bolt as there was a bail out carabiner on it when we got there. My group also could not finish the climb and bailed on the same dangerous bolt.
I climbed up the class IV backside to top rope this route and was disappointed with the top rope anchors. There is an old two bolt chain with quick links and a newer two bolt chain set. The newer chain is so small you can't fit carabiners in it or quick links and rope barely fits through it. I ended up rapping off the old chain / quick link set and calling it a day since I did not bring adequate static line or webbing to rig off the three bolt hangars located at the very top of the formation.
This was my first trip to texas canyon and I am disappointed with the bolting as many routes had multiple spinners. The bolts were 5/16" and need updating. I know it's easy to be a critic when not funding the hardware yourself but that's my take. There was one gentleman bolting a new route up the south face of the egg and he was doing it properly with 1/2" bolts and good hardware. He was also spray painting the bolts to hide them from non climbers which is great as we don't need any more attention from non climbers who may not like our sport.
From: Reseda, CA
Mar 4, 2011
The route described here was called Walking On Eggshells. It was a loose toprope that we never bolted. I do not know who bolted it but the bolts are nearly impossible to clip because they do not follow the line of holds.
The route called Egg-zillaraton is on the West face of the formation & starts out of the chimney. there are 5 bolts and the rock quality is very good. the FA of the Egg was accomplished by a light line tossed over the summit & a climbing rope pulled back over and anchored from the other side. I then jugged the line to gain the virgin summit. way exciting!
|By Benjamin Chapman|
Jan 5, 2012
The Egg is a splendid, but seldom visited summit. There's a bolted anchor on the NE shoulder of The Egg, above "Walking on Eggshells"/ "Exhilaration." The anchor consists of two widely spaced bolts, one above the other, and long rusted chains, one with a tiny screw-link and the other with 5/16" screw link. Two open coldshuts are on the west shoulder at the top of Egg-zillaration. There as also a set of Fixe rings below the summit on the south face.
|By Brian Mulvey|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jun 2, 2012
Did route pictured above, what Levy calls Walking on Eggshells (longer overhanging face on left, not shorter overhanging face on right whose first bolt is gained by stemming corridor). Walking on Eggshells may've been 11a/b but that was a dozen broken holds ago. It's now more like 11d/12a. The route is very sustained. An 11a/b leader going up there expecting an 11a/b lead will be in for a surprise. It'll only get harder as more holds break. Seems like 25% of the holds are temporary members, and the bolt protecting the crux hasn't gotten any less manky. Anchor is poor. Cool climb though.