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 ADVANCED
Gem Lake Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cleft, The 
Exemplary Behavior 
Left of Cleft 
Nameless Dihedral 
Squeezeasy 
Unsorted Routes:

Exemplary Behavior 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Armin Gooden, Deb Thompson, LP
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 17, 2012
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Description 

This is a line on the right side of the southern-most face of Gem Lake Wall. It ascends a right-facing dihedral and exits in a V-slot. It is not sustained, but it is fun. As a result, it is on the lean side of 2 stars, 1.75 probably.

P1. Climb up a low angle, right-facing dihedral through 2 steeper sections to a stance. Down low, maybe 20-25' up, try to put something in the crack to keep the rope out as you go right around a bulge. Pro for the belay includes large wires & a red Alien. 5.7, 125'.

P2. Go up to the large roof, skirt to the right over a short boulder problem. You may be tempted to move left onto a slopy face, but the protection is less than ideal. Continue right and move up into a V-slot. Those with small fingers may find it easier than the meaty types. The difficulty eases as the domes rounds out. Belay off some natural threads. You may find easier exits right if you are uninspired by the V-slot. 5.9, 115'.

To descend, we went east to a gully. Near the base of the gully, it cliffs out. We moved maybe 80 feet skier's right to find a couple downclimbs/scrambles. Hike down a brushy gully back to the base.


Location 

This ascends a right-facing dihedral that goes up to an improbable roof on the right end of the west face of this rock.


Protection 

A rack to a #3.5 Camalot. Hexes are not needed.



Photos of Exemplary Behavior Slideshow Add Photo
Armin on the easier terrain.
Armin on the easier terrain.
Topo.
Topo.
Deb follows the fun bit of P1.
Deb follows the fun bit of P1.
The upper bits of P2 after the V-slot.
The upper bits of P2 after the V-slot.
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