Exemplary Behavior  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Armin Gooden, Deb Thompson, LP Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Aug 17, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a line on the right side of the southern-most face of Gem Lake Wall. It ascends a right-facing dihedral and exits in a V-slot. It is not sustained, but it is fun. As a result, it is on the lean side of 2 stars, 1.75 probably.

P1. Climb up a low angle, right-facing dihedral through 2 steeper sections to a stance. Down low, maybe 20-25' up, try to put something in the crack to keep the rope out as you go right around a bulge. Pro for the belay includes large wires & a red Alien. 5.7, 125'.

P2. Go up to the large roof, skirt to the right over a short boulder problem. You may be tempted to move left onto a slopy face, but the protection is less than ideal. Continue right and move up into a V-slot. Those with small fingers may find it easier than the meaty types. The difficulty eases as the domes rounds out. Belay off some natural threads. You may find easier exits right if you are uninspired by the V-slot. 5.9, 115'.

To descend, we went east to a gully. Near the base of the gully, it cliffs out. We moved maybe 80 feet skier's right to find a couple downclimbs/scrambles. Hike down a brushy gully back to the base.

Location 

This ascends a right-facing dihedral that goes up to an improbable roof on the right end of the west face of this rock.

Protection 

A rack to a #3.5 Camalot. Hexes are not needed.

Photos of Exemplary Behavior Slideshow

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Armin on the easier terrain.	Deb follows the fun bit of P1.	The start of P2. Head right after you get below t...
The upper bits of P2 after the V-slot.