Excuse Station 5.11
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Excuse Station (left) and No Excuse (right).
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Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is one of the best thin hand cracks at Indian Creek. From Pente walk left along the base of the wall for about 200-300 yards. Find the obvious splitter with a left facing dihedral immediately to the right (No Excuse- funky 5.10++). The route starts off as perfect, cruiser thin hands (maybe a bit strenuous for fatter handed folks) to a good rest below the crux final 15' of the route. The crux involves tough ring locks with some features for feet. The route is maybe 90' and can easily be done with one 60m rope.
Protection A mess of #1 Camalots (or 2 and 2.5 friends), as well as a couple .75 camalots (maybe a .5 too) for the crux at the top. A #2 camalot was barely too big to fit.
Me climbing what I thought was the ten. Trevor L....
| lots of 2.5 friends
| Dave Stewart sends 'Excuse Station (hard 5.11)' at...
| Did this route with 4 number ones...started off sp...
| Start
| Near the start.
| Christian Gauderer giving it some corn.
| Oh the goodness. Red, Red, Red,...
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| Comments on Excuse Station |
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By Joel Hickok Jun 6, 2004 rating: 5.11-
| One 60m rope barely got me to the ledge at the base of the route. It's very very close, but just makes it. |
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 26, 2006 rating: 5.11
| relentless vertical tight hands forever. my hands were crampin up! |
By Danny Inman From: Arvada May 1, 2006 rating: 5.11-
| soooooo good. I originally went down on this end to do No Excuse, but when I saw this beauty I could not resist. |
By Brian Weinstein Sep 23, 2006 rating: 5.11c
| Wow. Take the time to walk the extra 20 minutes to this pitch. Wow! |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Oct 25, 2007 rating: 5.11+
| Great climb, the smaller your hands, the better. I found it not to technical, but enduro- maybe hard for the grade. |
By Scott W From: Roy, UT Mar 17, 2008 rating: 5.11a
| As with most Indian Creek routes it's easy for the grade if you know how to jam. Maybe 11a if you don't wear tape gloves. |
By Rob L From: Durango, CO Apr 11, 2008
| sweet route, definitely worth the hike down to it, especially when combined with its neighbor No Excuse. I'd recommend saving a .75 camalot for the end |
By Bob Rotert Sep 30, 2008
| Awesome splitter, folks with meaty hands should expect it to be hard!! I would expect ratings to be all over the 5.11 map for this one. Excellent example of a crack route where hand & even foot size can make a huge difference in difficulty. If your hands fit well enough your not going to find this route particularly hard but if they don't, depending on how bad they fit, be ready for a tough send!! The smooth 25 foot section with no face holds to work with after the first 15 feet will be the crux for folks with bigger hands and the top 10 may be the crux for others. The crack opens a little in the middle & upper section and the closes down some at the top. At least at the top you have a small dihedral system to work with and layback a bit off of with your feet. |
By claramie From: Boulder, CO Oct 27, 2008
| Another one of those ultimate classics. If you like this size /style you won't find a better route anywhere! Take a LOT of #1s. CL |
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Nov 6, 2008
| You can get in two very tight golds in the middle of this climb, so you don't need a million reds. but 7 is nice. |
By Jclimb From: Moab, UT Sep 20, 2010
| This route is longer than 90'. A 60 barely makes it depending on where you belay. Tie a knot in the end of your rope. A 70 is recommended. |
By adam brink From: Boulder, CO Feb 1, 2012
| Is this part of the Reservoir Wall okay to climb on? |
By Sam Lightner, Jr. Feb 1, 2012
| The ban only comes into effect when the birds move into the nest... thats usually late March or early April. The FOIC will try and keep you posted as to when this happens. BTW, thanks for asking. Following this ban really helps with access to the other cliffs. |
By adam brink From: Boulder, CO Feb 1, 2012
| Thanks Sam! |
By Princess Mia From: Vail Feb 29, 2012 rating: 5.11
| This is probably one of the best routes I have ever done in my life. So long, and so sustained, .75 and #1 cams forever. |
By GabeO From: Denver, CO Mar 26, 2012 rating: 5.11-
| If you're decent at thin hands, it's not bad. Not really #1s for most of it. After the first few feet it's 2.5 friends and tight #2s all the way until it pinches down at the very end. Way easier than No Excuse IMO. |
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