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Reservoir Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Arrival T 
Carruthers-Hauser T 
Cyborg T 
Dr. Carl T 
Ernie Used to Box T 
Excuse Station T 
Finger Food T 
From Switzerland With Love T 
Frosted Flakes T 
Good Excuse T 
Gurka T 
Left Crack T 
Less Than Zero T 
Machete T 
Marvelous! T 
Middle Crack T 
Mud dahbber  T 
Ninja T 
No Excuse T 
Overlook, The T 
Pat's Crack T 
Pente T 
Pirate Treasure  T 
Raja T 
Rez Dawgs T 
Sharka Zulu T 
Skank on the Hanglow T 
Slot Machine T 
Sumo T 
Three Fools T 
Trust it T 
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 
Unnamed 5.10 ( 12) - popular hands corner T 
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 
Warm-Up Handcrack T 
Wigglin' Worm T 
Will-Mento T 

Excuse Station 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 9,468
Submitted By: Joe Collins on May 25, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (97)
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Me climbing what I thought was the ten. Trevor L....

Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is one of the best thin hand cracks at Indian Creek. From Pente walk left along the base of the wall for about 200-300 yards. Find the obvious splitter with a left facing dihedral immediately to the right (No Excuse- funky 5.10++). The route starts off as perfect, cruiser thin hands (maybe a bit strenuous for fatter handed folks) to a good rest below the crux final 15' of the route. The crux involves tough ring locks with some features for feet. The route is maybe 90' and can easily be done with one 60m rope.

Protection 

A mess of #1 Camalots (or 2 and 2.5 friends), as well as a couple .75 camalots (maybe a .5 too) for the crux at the top. A #2 camalot was barely too big to fit.


Photos of Excuse Station Slideshow Add Photo
Did this route with 4 number ones...started off spreading them out 10 feet...then 15...then 20 feet apart...
Did this route with 4 number ones...started off sp...
Christian Gauderer giving it some corn.
Christian Gauderer giving it some corn.
Oh the goodness. Red, Red, Red,...
Oh the goodness. Red, Red, Red,...
Near the start.
Near the start.
Dave Stewart sends 'Excuse Station (hard 5.11)' at Resevior Wall in the Creek. Tony Bubb has no excuse for those pants on belay. Photo possibly by Mike Bannister or Chris Parks, 2005.
Dave Stewart sends 'Excuse Station (hard 5.11)' at...
lots of 2.5 friends
lots of 2.5 friends
Excuse Station (left) and No Excuse (right).
Excuse Station (left) and No Excuse (right).
Start
Start
Sweet hands
Sweet hands

Comments on Excuse Station Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 26, 2012
By J. Hickok
Jun 6, 2004
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

One 60m rope barely got me to the ledge at the base of the route. It's very very close, but just makes it.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

relentless vertical tight hands forever. my hands were crampin up!
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
May 1, 2006
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

soooooo good. I originally went down on this end to do No Excuse, but when I saw this beauty I could not resist.
By Brian Weinstein
Sep 23, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Wow. Take the time to walk the extra 20 minutes to this pitch. Wow!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Great climb, the smaller your hands, the better. I found it not to technical, but enduro- maybe hard for the grade.
By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 17, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

As with most Indian Creek routes it's easy for the grade if you know how to jam. Maybe 11a if you don't wear tape gloves.
By Rob L
From: Durango, CO
Apr 11, 2008

sweet route, definitely worth the hike down to it, especially when combined with its neighbor No Excuse. I'd recommend saving a .75 camalot for the end
By Bob Rotert
Sep 30, 2008

Awesome splitter, folks with meaty hands should expect it to be hard!! If not, then I guess you don't have an excuse....

I would expect ratings to be all over the 5.11 map for this one. Excellent example of a crack route where hand & even foot size can make a huge difference in difficulty. If your hands fit well enough your not going to find this route particularly hard but if they don't, depending on how bad they fit, be ready for a tough send!!

The smooth 25 foot section with no face holds to work with after the first 15 feet will be the crux for folks with bigger hands and the top 10 may be the crux for others. The crack opens a little in the middle & upper section and the closes down some at the top. At least at the top you have a small dihedral system to work with and layback a bit off of with your feet.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2008

Another one of those ultimate classics. If you like this size /style you won't find a better route anywhere! Take a LOT of #1s.

CL
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 6, 2008

You can get in two very tight golds in the middle of this climb, so you don't need a million reds. but 7 is nice.
By Jclimb
From: Moab, UT
Sep 20, 2010

This route is longer than 90'. A 60 barely makes it depending on where you belay. Tie a knot in the end of your rope. A 70 is recommended.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 1, 2012

Is this part of the Reservoir Wall okay to climb on?
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Feb 1, 2012

The ban only comes into effect when the birds move into the nest... thats usually late March or early April. The FOIC will try and keep you posted as to when this happens. BTW, thanks for asking. Following this ban really helps with access to the other cliffs.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 1, 2012

Thanks Sam!
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Feb 29, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This is probably one of the best routes I have ever done in my life. So long, and so sustained, .75 and #1 cams forever.
By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

If you're decent at thin hands, it's not bad. Not really #1s for most of it. After the first few feet it's 2.5 friends and tight #2s all the way until it pinches down at the very end. Way easier than No Excuse IMO.