Excursion 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 6 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Iwai Junichi, Kokubun Makoto |
| Submitted By: | Christian Storms on Mar 21, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: The bottom
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Description The first pitch is an easy 5.10a. There is an optional 5.8 to the right that can be done instead if you need to warm up. The 10a start moves up a slap with several delicate moves through small eyebrows and slopers to a high left belay on a nice ledge with a new anchor. P2 5.10a has you move up and right through a small bulge which is well protected. P3 is the crux pitch, move up and left over a small bulge and make tenuous smears on great rock, 5.10c. P4 and 5 has more of the same style of delicate moves on a nice slab but P5 moves through a small roof on it's far right side, P4 5.10a, P5 5.10a, P6 is very easy and only 30 feet long. At 5.9 it is not worth climbing.
Location South Face of Joyama. Start on route left of Homeboy. If your are using the Japan 100 number 3 guide book this route is number 9. Battle runner is number 15.
Protection sport
BETA PHOTO: Anchor at end of first pitch
| BETA PHOTO: Crux - hangover, good time for an uncling
| BETA PHOTO: Start of second pitch 5.10a
| BETA PHOTO: first pitch
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