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This is a long & really fun route, with a beautiful, slightly overhanging headwall with small pockets, high off the ground. "Rock Climbing New Mexico" rates it 12a but it seemed a lot easier than that--there are no moves harder than 10+/11-, and if you step left halfway up the headwall, there is a pretty good rest. (I'm not saying it's not hard, it was plenty challenging for me--just not 12a. I found "Unruly Macaque" 11c, just down the way, to be significantly harder.)
At any rate, it's a great route. Take care down low, as there is a long runout (moderate climbing) on poor rock. This protects with gear, but would it hold? If not you'll probably hit the ground. Above this the harder climbing is very well-protected with bolts.
You can start on Brangus by the Horns and then move right after two bolts to create a more sustained route. This would also eliminate the need for gear, although it might create rope drag.
This is just right of Brangus by the Horns (two routes right of Reddi-Whip), and just to the left of the obvious pocketed slab, Blood, Sweat and Steers. It has one bolt, followed by a chossy crack, a small roof, and then a beautiful headwall which appears very difficult from the ground. Long pitch.
a bunch of draws, one long sling for under the roof (or backclean the draw), and one or two friends in the 1.5-3 size range. 50 meter rope might not be long enough.
By Mickey Hazelwood
Jan 19, 2012
FA: Mickey Hazelwood
This route should probably be rated in the mid 5.11 range.