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Muralla Grande
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Clarks Cramps T 
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La Selva T 
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Little Yellow Jacket T 
Out to Lunch T 
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Warpy Moople T 

Excitable Boys 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: upper: M. Roybal, C. Gray- 1973, lower: P. Prandoni, D. Bridgers 1975
Season: spring through fall
Page Views: 6,674
Submitted By: Chuck McQuade on Jan 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Chuck combining p1 and p2

Description 

P1: (5.7) Face climb on easier terrain, passing a tree on its left. The pitch ends at a 2-bolt anchor.

P2: (5.8) Continue up from the anchor on lower angle face and discontinuous cracks, alongside a stunning right facing dihedral. A pin and bolt supplement the discontinuous cracks system. The pitch ends under a small triangular roof at another 2-bolt anchor.
(P1 and P2 can be combined with a 60m rope)

P3: (5.9+) Climb up to the roof passing it on its left. Enter into a left facing dihedral. Half way up the dihedral a bulge is encountered (5.9+). Fire through the short crux and continue on easier ground, to a ledge system, ending at a 2-bolt anchor.

P4: (5.8) Climb up and slightly right from the belay over clean rock to a 2-bolt anchor.

(Variation P4: (5.10) Having not done this variation, I can’t accurately comment on it. The Sandia rock book comments on loose rock, and attempts to steer climbers to the line I describe above.

NOTE: Pitches 3 & 4 can also easily be combined with a 60m rope, a 50m rope is probably possible as well.

P5: (4th class) Cruise the 4th class gulley to the spacious “Football Ledge”. Belay at the north end of the ledge, there is a large boulder that can be slung as an anchor.
(This pitch is best simul-climbed, however can be done with an intermediate belay before a short headwall within the gulley. From the two bolt belay at the top of pitch 4, you cannot get to the ledge starting pitch 6 in a single 60m pitch)

P6: (5.9+) Face climb to the base of a small roof and a right facing dihedral, ignore the old bolt at the entrance to the dihedral. About 30 feet to the left is the end of Warpy Moople’s p5. An awkward move into the dihedral, followed by a section of OW awaits the leader. After the short OW another awkward slot followed by easier ground to a sloping ledge. This ledge is also the belay for the end of p6 for Warpy Moople.

A #5 Camalot works well for the OW on p6 (a #4 Camalot is not big enough).

P7: (5.7) Finish on the final pitch of Warpy Moople.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 Camalot, slings. A large Camalot may come in handy for the OW on P6 [new #5 is good], if you want protection on 5.7 OW.

[GP suggestion for rack. Bring:
2 each of finger-size cams, especially if intending to link pitches
1 each thin hand to fist-size cams, up to #3 blue camalot
bigger cams (#4, #5 camalot) optional but can be placed
1 set nuts
Don't need: tiniest cams (#00,#0 TCU) or RPs.]


Photos of Excitable Boys Slideshow Add Photo
The center of the upper half of this photo features "the bulge" of pitch 3.
The center of the upper half of this photo feature...
Approximate route.  Blue is 4th class. Red is a 5.10 variation to p4.
BETA PHOTO: Approximate route. Blue is 4th class. Red is a 5....
P6
BETA PHOTO: P6
Tamara on the stellar P2
Tamara on the stellar P2
George approaches the "awkward roof" crux on p6.
George approaches the "awkward roof" cru...
Tamara approaching the p5 roof.  The climbs crux, which is quickly followed by a short section of nasty offwidth.  Just to the left of the roof is the belay for Warpy Moople's p5.
Tamara approaching the p5 roof. The climbs crux, ...
Ken Trout nearing the end of the second pitch.
Ken Trout nearing the end of the second pitch.
Tamara making short work of the routes crux!
Tamara making short work of the routes crux!
P2
BETA PHOTO: P2

Comments on Excitable Boys Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 21, 2012
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 12, 2007

Pitches 3 & 4 can also easily be combined with a 60m rope, a 50m rope is probably possible as well. Didn't take a #4 camelot, but might be nice if you don't like wide stuff.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 4, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

#4 Camalot (old-style, or new, doesn't matter) is not big enough for the OW on p6. You need bigger pro than this, or grovel up it without immediate close pro (no big deal- it's 5.7 or so).
Other comments:
  • Link pitches 1+ 2 and pitches 3 + 4 w/ 60m rope as stated above.
  • On the 4th class pitch (p5): From 2 bolt belay on top of the 5.9 p4 option, you can't get to Football Ledge in a single 60m pitch. If you were to set a belay after 60m, what remains is probably 'only' 3rd class, however. Or simulclimb, which is what most people do.

This climb is a good option especially if other parties occupy The Second Coming or Warpy Moople. This climb is less sustained than Warpy Moople, and the cruxes are perhaps a notch harder than Warpy Moople but with obvious good pro at them.

The Hill guide to the Sandias does not show this route by this name; rather it appears to show this line as Masochist Variant (Prandoni/Bridgers,1975)
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 3, 2007

Word to the Wise. Using the Mike Hill guide requires some serious interpretation and adaptation skills on the part of the reader. I'm sure the poor and often completely wrong information in the Hill guide, lead to the many epics and suspect reputation the Sandias have gained over the years. Either of the Schein guides are vast improvements. Do not rely on the Hill guide for any accurate information when it comes the climb descriptions or topos.

The first time I climbed Excitable Boys we thought we were doing Clark's Cramps!?
By Clark Gray
Jan 25, 2008

I know what you mean. A lot of the routes in Mikes book were relayed after the facts and sometimes many beers. Thats why after a few inquires I decided to write down the original route description to Clarks Cramps. See routes.
By longfeather
From: Albuqurque ,NM
Aug 1, 2008

P1,2 link 58m 5.7+
P3 60m 5.9+ to football go L and climb cool 9+ roof at almost football ledge. you are 20ft right of crappy mashy bolts
P4 45m cl3 hike to near warpy . stop

p5 5.9 50m climb direct and rightish to grassy ledge 30m above football ledge. Climb cool 5.9 crack with exit OW easy there is fixed nut on this crack. keep going rightish to big sexy ledge. belay small pro.
p6 40m 5.6 to summit

much shorter and safer than WARP finish. with a little simul climbing 4 pitches. I have excellent topo of excitable boys drawn by Jim Linn while drinking moonshine in 1995. note,There is a great r var if you climb p1,2 far right on face and arete. recently tried to climb direct from football, above crappy placed mashy bolts, to big tree got scared and downclimbed ,bit runny. Might try again on TR for three pitch version of excitable.
By longfeather
From: Albuqurque ,NM
Aug 1, 2008

The older sandia guide is an excellent guidebook for texans. new book sucks too though has pretty picture. we need ocd psyco climber photo geek in sandias to climb for about ten years straight for a good guide. Sooo many routes I love it. lots of loose rock you better goto Palomas much safer a bolt every six feet.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Just a few feet above the old, scary bolt on the sixth pitch is a chalked-up and tempting looking flake to use to get into the awkward dihedral. However, this flake is very sketchy and I wouldn't recommend pulling on it. We considered yanking it yesterday but we think there were people below us.
By mattb19
Aug 11, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

In regard to the flake I tried to yank on it yesterday and it would not go anywhere. Maybe I was just not strong enough.
By longfeather
From: Albuqurque ,NM
Aug 22, 2008

the fixed pins should go away on this route
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Sep 30, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A #5 new-style BD Camalot does work in the OW on P6. A #6 might work just as well or perhaps better - not sure.
By Jeffrey Hyman
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Oct 4, 2008

I did the route a few years back and if I remember right the 5.10 variant was rather fun. I don't think it was chosy and I don't really recall the pro as I was following on that pitch.
By mtnrobb
Dec 3, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

5.10 variation is worthwhile I thought...
By longfeather
From: Albuqurque ,NM
Mar 14, 2010

Bone Cage Var to Excitable , solo up for a bit then keep right at start od EB, stay on edge of arete , pro ok but missing sometimes, cross excitable at overhang P1or2 use anchor
P2 join ex boys for 80ft or so then go left climb up three pitches to summit youll cross football ledge left of EB ,P3 leave Football ledge twenty feet left of entrace to it , traverse into schroungy discontinuous crack system,P4-5 climb two pithch straight up to big tree where mtn club left giant piece of webbing.

200' rope required small pro plenty of lichenskill and dry weather, this one runs../

Im just an excitable boy

VAR Amanda Chapin, Longfeather Epistein
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I agree with what others have said about the left 5.10a dihedral variation on the second pitch. I thought this was really fun and it protects well. Quite nice.
By nealg
May 26, 2010

Did route yesterday:

1) definitely link pitches as described

2) i wandered briefly on p4 - the line seems to head more right off the belay then i expected from the topo

3) loose block next to OW on p6 is very sketchy - use great caution; leader in my party yarded on it and it moved alot but still in place

4) the last pitch is a heaping pile of lichen covered death blocks - i also ended up with some heinous drag - use long runners...

overall - thought this was a very mediocre Sandias route; Second Coming, though shorter is more fun and much much less filled with loose junk.
By Jeremy Bauman
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Climbed this route today with Casey Eales. Linking pitches works well and the 5.10 variation of p2 is worthwhile. P4 goes much further right than I had expected traversing under a large roof.

Pitch 4 5.11? variation.
Instead of traversing right under a big roof to the anchors, climb through the 6ft roof crack (#4 new style camalot) jamming and lie backing until you pull over the lip and reach for the thin crack. After mantling on a laptop sized ledge to the left of the finger crack, place some pro and continue up to the gully or traverse right to the p4 belay anchors.
By Alex Washburne
Jun 12, 2011

Climbed this route today with Supra & Wes, linking pitches as seems to be the norm (1&2, 3&4). A few comments about pro:

IMO, #3 BD camalot was sufficient protection for the pitch 6 crux. I'm a pansy, relatively new 5.9 leader who sews up routes, and I brought the #5 for the OW (I absolutely abhor OW). However, I found the OW was a walk in the park compared to the crux right below it, sufficiently protected by said #3, and i dumped the #5 just to get rid of the weight.

Contrary to the recommended rack above, I found that small metolious mastercams (00 & 0) were very handy for this climb, with plenty of small, parallel cracks just begging for perfect placements.

All and all, this was a very fulfilling climb.
By ozman
From: CO / NM
Sep 12, 2011

Purposefully pulled some loose blocks down on this over the weekend. If you know a rock is loose and you are confident there is nobody below, do not wait to remove loose material on a route. A couple of the blocks were ticking time bombs and should have been pulled long ago. Good route.
By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The 5.10 variation is worth it. I would suggest not wearing a pack for this one.