Excellent climbing up a steep, solid face. Begin ascending a thin, finger-sized crack and gain two consecutive ledges to use as rests. When the crack fizzles out, head up and slightly left using face features working towards the shared anchor of Verona. You'll find the placements are plenty for the first 20-25 feet before the climbing breaks left at right leading dog-leg. Get a good piece or two in around the upper flake, then punch it for the top.
This is the thin crack to the right of Verona, it lies on the left side of the Tangerine Wall.
Bring a single rack up to 1 inch, stoppers and draws.
|Comments on Excess Ain't Rebellion
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 20, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
fun climb for aspiring 5.10 trad leaders... two full ledge rests between vertical sections keep it mellow