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Excellent Adventure
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 5
votes
Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock
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Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Excellent Adventure S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kiddy Pool S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mono Matt T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rocksie Rocks S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | B.Scott, J. Tarry |
| Page Views: | 1,571 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Scott on Mar 31, 2014 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
2022: South Face closures from May 15 - July 31.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures
Details
Per garrett K: The South face of Arthur's Rock is currently CLOSED for raptor nesting as of 4/7/17.
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
Description
This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2014). Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…
Start in a short, left-facing corner about 30 feet left of The Great Corner. Climb two bolts up the corner to a 30 foot traverse moving right along a slopy ledge with non-existent hand holds. After the traverse, climb up the left-leaning seam until you can switch to the easier crack on the left.
nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…
Start in a short, left-facing corner about 30 feet left of The Great Corner. Climb two bolts up the corner to a 30 foot traverse moving right along a slopy ledge with non-existent hand holds. After the traverse, climb up the left-leaning seam until you can switch to the easier crack on the left.
Location
To reach the South Face, hike up the ArthurÂ’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climberÂ’s right.
Protection
11 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor.
ROPE MANAGEMENT is tricky with this route due to the long traverse. Climbing with 2 ropes is ideal. Otherwise you can tie both ends of your single rope to your harness, climb the initial corner and traverse with the 1st end, clip the first two bolts on the diagonal with the 2nd end, then untie end 1 and drop it back to your belayer. This sounds weird, but it really wasn't too bad at all.
ROPE MANAGEMENT is tricky with this route due to the long traverse. Climbing with 2 ropes is ideal. Otherwise you can tie both ends of your single rope to your harness, climb the initial corner and traverse with the 1st end, clip the first two bolts on the diagonal with the 2nd end, then untie end 1 and drop it back to your belayer. This sounds weird, but it really wasn't too bad at all.
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