Excalibur  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Tim Olson Submitted By:  peachy spohn on Sep 30, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting. MORE INFO >>> From the Washington Park's Page Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing except where it interferes with nesting raptors, primarily on the south face. The presence of the falcon nest requires that the south face be closed to technical rock activity February 1 to mid-July annually; open the rest of the year. The east face is closed year-round due to environmental sensitivity. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Excalibur begins on top of the Beacon Towers, which are just to the left of Blownout. There are many ways to reach the belay spot on the Towers, but Wild Turkeys is probably the best approach at 5.10C. Excalibur is a demanding lead, with both powerful and delicate sections, and, since it is rarely done, requires a good head and the ability to find not so visible holds. The crux comes high on the route and involves a very thin seem and crimps to gain a wide section in the crack. Even though it is seldom done Excalibur is a very good climb on solid rock.

Protection 

Bolts and pitons protect roughly the first 3/4 of the climb, but not necessarily the hardest climbing. Small nuts and cams (between 0-5 metolious) protect the rest.