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Excalibur 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 09/05
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 819
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Sep 21, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Second pitch of Excalibur. Climb a steep corner an...

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Description 

Details: The sword in the stone. You have to use your imagination. Something cleved that beautiful dihedral and the strange split pyramid at its base. This route ascends the very steep dihedral in the crag above the parking shoulder across from Avalon. The wall faces southeast and gets nice morning sunlight. You could literally belay from your car (if you wanted to).

P1: Begin from the road directly beneath the big open book of the second pitch. Climb past 2 bolts and belay from a 2-bolt anchor on a sloping ledge (5.11b).

An easier start begins well to the right of the dihedral. Climb stepped rock past two bolts, then traverse left along a sloping ledge to a 2-bolt belay anchor near the bottom of the dihedral (5.6).

P2: Climb the slightly overhanging dihedral past 6 bolts and lower off from a 2-bolt ring anchor at the top. You can lower all the way to the road and still have plenty of rope to belay and lower your partner. Total height from the road is 80 feet.

Protection 

Pitch 1: 2 bolts only to a 2-bolt anchor with lap links.

Pitch 2: 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. You can lower all the way to road.


Photos of Excalibur Slideshow Add Photo
Bruno stemmed out at the crux.
Bruno stemmed out at the crux.
Photo by Joan Johns of Bruno Heche, Ray  Snead, R....
Photo by Joan Johns of Bruno Heche, Ray Snead, R....
Excalibur Direct Start.  Climb a steep wall past t...
BETA PHOTO: Excalibur Direct Start. Climb a steep wall past t...
Bob cruising up the second pitch of Excalibur.
Bob cruising up the second pitch of Excalibur.
Greg finishing the direct start.
Greg finishing the direct start.
The start of the upper section.
The start of the upper section.

Comments on Excalibur Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 21, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The ambiance turns this otherwise decent route into a not-so-great route. Then again, we discovered that you can belay from your car's passenger seat through the rolled-down window and escape some of the noise at the base. Wear a helmet and seatbelt to keep from getting bashed if the leader falls.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Apr 24, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is my favorite route at this crag. The crux, down low, takes a lot of strength. Up high there is another hard move, maybe 10d, in the dihedral. We did it in one pitch, skipping the anchor on the ledge.
By Robots and Dinosaurs
Apr 29, 2014

A nice route at a nice crag, if you are in a hurry. It really doesn't need to be done in two pitches, we ignored the lower anchors completely. The lower crux is more dynamic, and the upper crux is more technical in my opinion, which I thought was really cool. It helps to make this a pretty well rounded route with a fun, easier chunk through the middle of the route. All that being said, it isn't a bad idea to bring a helmet, because there is a decent amount of small, loose rock that would hurt but are not likely to injure your belayer.