Exasperator 

Great climbing. I did it on a *hot* day and nearly melted... which made the crux off the belay challenging. Small, solid finger locks on slippery feet is the name of the game here.

For me it was one of the most memorable climbs in the area. I pink pointed this route with a dislocated toe and with one foot in a tennis shoe while the other was in a climbing shoe. Talk about slippery! Solid finger locks will get you to the top.

Get on this thing! Take 3 purple camalots (or equivalent), and lots of stoppers and finger sized stuff. nothing bigger than a #1 camalot.

Do it in one pitch- set a bomber piece after the first belay and fire through the crux.

Outstanding, one of the best 5.10 pitches i've done- this thing is like a friendly Serenity Crack!

Great route. If you are not up to 10c do the first pitch at least. It is awesome. The second pitch is great as well. Highly recommend doing it in one.

Spectacular Route! If it's warm get on it in the shade.

Magnificent route. The crack eats medium sized nuts and is enjoyable throughout. We walked up to it in the evening as the sun was setting on it and enjoyed perfect temps after a hot day.

The bottom pitch can be a little wet. Small fingers like mine combined with a little moisture make the two pitches feel about the same in grade.
Run the two together for 1 very high quality 45+ meter pitch.

Rad climb. Did it one pitch. The crux is good fun... poor finger lock, good finger lock, repeat for 30 feet. Fiddling gear in through the crux portion definitely requires energy.

Local beta says stay high at the crux on P2. use the crack for your feet, and use face holds above for hands.

Gear: Worth saving a very large nut or #1 camalot for the last 10 feet. Exquisite, especially for tiny hands: perfect finger-locks and ring-locks the entire well!!!

orclimber wrote:
local beta says stay high at the crux on P2. use the crack for your feet, and use face holds above for hands.

I've never seen anyone do it this way, and I've done this climb several times and spent lots of time at the base of the Chief on neighboring routes. It would be quite a feat and wildly insecure. I don't know how you'd protect it or get back into the crack unless you walked it all the way to the point where it turns back left. The crux is really only two moves before you get bomber finger locks (still no feet, but it'd be hard to fall out of the locks unless you just pumped out).

Definitly do it in one pitch, it's so fun, there's no reason to stop midway! Great route, really enjoyed this one.

Does it get anymore classic? Seriously, flawless climb.

agreed that this is an absolutely amazing route. a classic of classics. maybe the best granite finger crack I've ever climbed! works pretty well to climb the whole thing with a 70. then you can just do the two raps back to the ground. might want a couple of green aliens for the right slanting carck on p2. didn't see any need to sue the mentioned "local beta"

beyond stellar! Save a red c4 for the final left angling section. You can get up high on it and surprisingly easily layback the final section to the chains.

Considered by many to be the best 5.10 in Squamish.

Stellar route, great pro, fun movement. Just go do it.

My first Squamish route back in 1995 and it was an amazing introduction to the area. I try to squeeze it in before cruel shoes to bellygood each time.