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Exasperator 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1975: Eric Weinstein and Dave Nicol for the route as described, original FA by Jim Sinclair and Jim Baldwin in 1960
Page Views: 16,955
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (158)
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Taking a bite out of the Exasperator.

Description 

This is a probably a Squamish top-ten short route on most people's lists.

Its two pitches are themselves reasonably short, but it's often done as a single long pitch (probably not possible with a 50m rope, but 60 is fine). You can rap twice or bring a second rope and do one long rappel.

The crux comes shortly after the first belay station and requires careful smearing while reaching between small but good finger locks.

Location 

This is the first distinct crack right of the Peasant's Route dihedral, which is right of the Apron Strings dihedral system. It looks short from below, but don't be fooled.

Protection 

Excellent the entire way. Primarily small nuts and small cams up to tight hands. Take lots of them, especially the nuts, and especially if you're going to link the two pitches. You probably won't need a hand-sized piece until the final fifteen feet, by which time the difficulty has eased somewhat.


Photos of Exasperator Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the end of the first pitch of Exasperator.  Photo of Rebecca Goulding by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.
Nearing the end of the first pitch of Exasperator....
The beautiful thin hands finish to Exasperator
The beautiful thin hands finish to Exasperator
Me on the first pitch!
Me on the first pitch!
Kayte D en route
Kayte D en route
Erik Offner leading the second pitch of Exasperator. Photo: Reed Cusack
Erik Offner leading the second pitch of Exasperato...
So good!
So good!
Brad demonstrating the crux technique for Exasperator.
Brad demonstrating the crux technique for Exaspera...
Here is a photo of the entire climb.
BETA PHOTO: Here is a photo of the entire climb.
Collin making some delicate moves
Collin making some delicate moves
P1.  Link them both with a 70.  Delightfully fun.  Your fingers will thank you.
P1. Link them both with a 70. Delightfully fun. ...
The Slab
The Slab
Bring the gear, so that you can link them!
Bring the gear, so that you can link them!
Good feet can be had if you are willing to walk it!
Good feet can be had if you are willing to walk it...
So good!
So good!

Comments on Exasperator Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 3, 2014
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Mar 18, 2006

Great climbing. I did it on a *hot* day and nearly melted... which made the crux off the belay challenging. Small, solid finger locks on slippery feet is the name of the game here.
By Mike fenice
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2006

For me it was one of the most memorable climbs in the area. I pink pointed this route with a dislocated toe and with one foot in a tennis shoe while the other was in a climbing shoe. Talk about slippery! Solid finger locks will get you to the top.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 27, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Get on this thing! Take 3 purple camalots (or equivalent), and lots of stoppers and finger sized stuff. nothing bigger than a #1 camalot.

Do it in one pitch- set a bomber piece after the first belay and fire through the crux.

Outstanding, one of the best 5.10 pitches i've done- this thing is like a friendly Serenity Crack!
By Doug D
From: Park City, Utah
Sep 20, 2007

Great route. If you are not up to 10c do the first pitch at least. It is awesome. The second pitch is great as well. Highly recommend doing it in one.
By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 2, 2008

Spectacular Route! If it's warm get on it in the shade.
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 26, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Magnificent route. The crack eats medium sized nuts and is enjoyable throughout. We walked up to it in the evening as the sun was setting on it and enjoyed perfect temps after a hot day.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 30, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The bottom pitch can be a little wet. Small fingers like mine combined with a little moisture make the two pitches feel about the same in grade.
Run the two together for 1 very high quality 45+ meter pitch.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 15, 2008

Rad climb. Did it one pitch. The crux is good fun... poor finger lock, good finger lock, repeat for 30 feet. Fiddling gear in through the crux portion definitely requires energy.
By orclimber
From: Portland, OR
Jan 31, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Local beta says stay high at the crux on P2. use the crack for your feet, and use face holds above for hands.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jan 31, 2009

orclimber wrote:
local beta says stay high at the crux on P2. use the crack for your feet, and use face holds above for hands.


Ha, that's funny.
By Sarah Kate
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 5, 2009

Gear: Worth saving a very large nut or #1 camalot for the last 10 feet. Exquisite, especially for tiny hands: perfect finger-locks and ring-locks the entire well!!!
By Jason Holliday
From: Blacksburg, VA
Jul 19, 2010

orclimber wrote:
local beta says stay high at the crux on P2. use the crack for your feet, and use face holds above for hands.

I've never seen anyone do it this way, and I've done this climb several times and spent lots of time at the base of the Chief on neighboring routes. It would be quite a feat and wildly insecure. I don't know how you'd protect it or get back into the crack unless you walked it all the way to the point where it turns back left. The crux is really only two moves before you get bomber finger locks (still no feet, but it'd be hard to fall out of the locks unless you just pumped out).
By Monica Jones
From: CO
Jul 27, 2010

Definitly do it in one pitch, it's so fun, there's no reason to stop midway! Great route, really enjoyed this one.
By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 24, 2011

Does it get anymore classic? Seriously, flawless climb.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 29, 2011

agreed that this is an absolutely amazing route. a classic of classics. maybe the best granite finger crack I've ever climbed! works pretty well to climb the whole thing with a 70. then you can just do the two raps back to the ground. might want a couple of green aliens for the right slanting carck on p2. didn't see any need to sue the mentioned "local beta"
By Phill T
Aug 16, 2012

beyond stellar! Save a red c4 for the final left angling section. You can get up high on it and surprisingly easily layback the final section to the chains.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Sep 26, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Considered by many to be the best 5.10 in Squamish.

Stellar route, great pro, fun movement. Just go do it.
By T Rundle
From: Belltown
Jan 18, 2013

My first Squamish route back in 1995 and it was an amazing introduction to the area. I try to squeeze it in before cruel shoes to bellygood each time.
By john dyck
Feb 20, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A fantastic climb.With a 60m rope linked both pitches without clipping the anchor on p1. An onsight...barely
By Alex Charmoz
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 3, 2014

The best 5.10 anywhere.