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Mar 30, 2010
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Just wondering what people thought of these shoes?

I just recently purchased a pair for all day trad routes, New Hampshire cracks and multi-pitch climbs. It has been raining for 4 days so I haven't gotten them out yet, but they fit like a glove and I can see them performing well in the cracks and edging. I have glalileos and Miura VS's for the real steep days and friction, bbut thought these would be a good "all-around trad shoe" for the quiver.

Any reviews out there?
Grammy
Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Joined Jun 25, 2008
453 points
Mar 30, 2010
n cascades
Exact same review. Love them for all day stuff, but the bottom stiffener caused a hole to wear quickly through the bottom of the sole from being twisted into cracks. Great shoes, though. Jesse Davidson
From san diego, ca
Joined May 30, 2007
71 points
Mar 30, 2010
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I can see how that stiffener could cause problems over the long haul...particularly in cracks. Seems it would limit the ability to smear a bit too. Boy...if they lost that stiffener, they could be looking at a Mythos that fits human feet!!! lol :) Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Joined Jun 25, 2008
453 points
Mar 30, 2010
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johnL wrote:
FWIW, recently I've done all my hard jamming in Evolv Defy's with shoe goo protecting the upper. Way durable and way more sensitive than the Quest.


Maybe when I blow out of the VS's I will give the Defy's a try. I have tried the Optimus Primes and the Pontas both the lace up and the Velcro...but they just didn't fit my feet the way the Bandits and the Quest did. ARe the defy's a better fit in your opinion for a wider foot. The pontas and OP's really seemed to be too narrow and built for a lower volumed foot!
Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Joined Jun 25, 2008
453 points
Mar 30, 2010
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johnL wrote:
Anyway, the Defy has become one of the most popular shoes on the market. Cheap and high performing. They do stretch to fit to a minor degree, so I imagine that they fit a wide array of feet.


And plenty comfortable (relatively speaking) when you stuff them in cracks?
Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Joined Jun 25, 2008
453 points
Mar 31, 2010
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I am looking forward to getting these puppies out on some stone this weekend and give the feet a bit of a rest. Hopefully everyhting dries out over the next couple of days...the northeast really got a soaking these past 4 days!! Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Joined Jun 25, 2008
453 points


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