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Evolv Elektra - A Great Shoe for New Female Climbers
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By Crux Crush
Mar 29, 2013
rock love

We think this shoe is great for your first purchase. Here's why:
cruxcrush.com/2013/03/29/gear-review-evolv-elektras/


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By Kiri Namtvedt
Mar 29, 2013

It's not so simple. Sure, that may be a great first shoe for some female climbers, but I gotta say - there's no substitute for trying things on, and there's a lot of variation in foot shape. Also, re: the review; I think I see far more women in the La Sportiva Miura.


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By Crux Crush
Mar 29, 2013
rock love

I totally agree that we're simplifying here and there is definitely variation between foot shape, etc. However, these shoes have worked well for a lot of beginners that I know.
I also agree that the Miura is a great shoe (I'm on my 2nd pair of them), and while this could be someone's first shoe I think it's a little more aggressive than most people need when they're just learning how to edge, twist their hips, etc. Totally depends on how much you want to dive right into climbing and get aggressive or ease in and be a little more comfortable.
Compared to the Miura the Elektra is also more affordable which might appeal to newbies who aren't sure if they're hooked on climbing yet or just enjoying it for the moment.
Thanks for the thoughts!!


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 29, 2013

Kiri Namtvedt wrote:
It's not so simple. Sure, that may be a great first shoe for some female climbers, but I gotta say - there's no substitute for trying things on, and there's a lot of variation in foot shape. Also, re: the review; I think I see far more women in the La Sportiva Miura.


Fit is king when it comes to climbing shoes. I've put a fair number of beginning female climbers in shoes, and I'd say the Women's Muira edges the Elektra by a decent margin in general, but thats not to say the Elektra is not popular.

I would say that the Elektra and Women's Muira pretty much own the beginner women's market for the most part. There are some other shoes in there (Women's mythos, women's katana, etc), but most go for either purple or white for sure.


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By Ian Stewart
Mar 29, 2013

The Elektra is the women's version of the Defy. The reason you see so many beginners in these shoes is because they are pretty tame (comfortable), they're the cheapest shoe (MSRP), and I know that the gym I climbed in when I first started climbing offered a beginner package with the Defy/Elektra, harness, and ATC for a pretty discounted rate. I started out with the Defy and in terms of performance, it did exactly what it needed to do for a beginner climber.

That being said, the Defy/Elektra is notorious for being stinky. I started climbing at the same time as 3 other people and after a few months everybody's shoes started getting really rank even though none of us had a history of foot odor. Over the months that followed we tried EVERYTHING we could to get rid of the stink; some methods worked for a couple weeks but it would always come back with a vengeance. I was embarrassed to climb within 15 feet of anybody else in the gym, it really was that bad. Eventually it got to the point where we had no choice but to just throw them out and buy new shoes (probably after about a year total).

I now own 6 other pairs of shoes, and none of them have this problem. I still have the Miuras that I bought to replace my Defys, which are about 5 years old and on their 4th resole. Another pair of Miuras are 3 years old and on their 2nd resole. (I just got the tracking number for my 3rd pair of Miuras, too...yay!) My other shoes have been worn less than these, but I"m sure they've all been worn about as much as the Defy's were. I've never once had to use any sort of deodorizer on any of these shoes, and I could put my nose right in any pair and take a big whiff without being bothered.

Mine is far from the only account of this. A quick search on MP for threads about the Defy will show many similar stories. I think it has to do with the synthetic materials used in these shoes, which is why I only ever buy leather now, but I think even synthetic materials from other companies don't have this problem either.

Long story short: I would never, ever, ever recommend these shoes to anybody.


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Mar 29, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

I could perosnally care less about my shoes stinking but the defys were the worst pair of climbing shoes ive ever owned.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 29, 2013
...

"I think it has to do with the synthetic materials used in these shoes, which is why I only ever buy leather now"...


Leather is the best for NON STINK factor...

Synthetics by ALL shoe companies have big time STINK potential...(SmellVolvs are #1 in this area)...


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By Kiri Namtvedt
Mar 29, 2013

And for the record: the shoe I've worn for the longest time as a "comfortable shoe" is the old Five Ten Hueco - the maroon version. Leather, no stink, has conformed perfectly to the shape of my foot. But in my quest to find a new comfortable shoe I've tried on a lot of different models and I ended up going with the La Sportiva Mythos.

Again I'd say that trying things on is absolutely necessary - I've tried to mail-order shoes and I almost inevitably send them back for sizing issues.


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By JoeR
From Eugene, OR
Mar 30, 2013

I'm really happy with my defys. They've held up great to tons of abuse. Every time they get the stink I give them a good rubbing alcohol soak and soap+water scrub out and they are good as new. Can't beat the price.


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Mar 30, 2013

Why compare Electra to Miura? One costs half of the other. I must, the Evolv shoes I tried on smell baaaaad, and I washed the hell out of them.


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By bearbreeder
Mar 30, 2013

spray lysol in em

as to the climbing ... i know people who solo in em just fine ... plenty of people use em up here

i took out some screaming newbie girl this weekend who had the electra lace, she managed to walk up 10+ slab and cracks just fine ... things ive seen some guys with fancy shoes flail on

the climber makes the difference ;)


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 30, 2013
...

"spray lysol in em"



Not the best idea!

Best idea is to WASH your feet before heading out and to remove your shoes between climbs as often as possible to let them dry out as much as possible.

Also, using foot powders only creates a stranger STINK. Doesn't really STOP the STINK.

And of course get LEATHER shoes or accept that synthetics are going to SMELL because they will!


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