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Evolv Astroman???
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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Jun 14, 2012
splitterchoss.com/2012/01/27/t...

What do you think?? WIll this be the poor mans version of the TC Pro? or the same as the grandstones?? At least Evolv makes shoes in my size, and these are supposed to come in leather, if they ever come out.

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 14, 2012
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord
have you tried testerosas?

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Jun 14, 2012
Yes, but that's a different topic dummy.

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 14, 2012
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord
no reason to start name-calling.

i saw a video of Honnold climbing Astroman WITH testarosas, smarty-pants, so there is validity to my question. i must have misunderstood the thread topic.

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By Sean H
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 6, 2012
Da Bugs
Poor man's TC Pros? More like TC Pros for people that don't have narrow euro feet.

My street shoe size is 10.5/11 depending on the shoe. While trying on TC Pros, the toe box didn't fit until I was in a 12.5 (or 12, I forget exactly, but at least >= 12) , at which point the ankles were ridiculously baggy.

I ended up with Grandstones, which would be 100% awesome...that is if Five Ten didn't give them such a humongous toe profile. Great all day route shoe...if the route doesn't require much in the way of finger size cracks.

So yeah, eagerly awaiting the PC Pros :)

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By Kilroywashere!
From Harrisonburg, Virginia
Jul 7, 2012
Kilroy
man, evolv has perfected the art of making some fugly ass shoes...

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By Joseph Lascurain
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 24, 2012
Smith Rocks
Evolv says they will be out by the end of the month.

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By mattm
From TX
Jul 24, 2012
Grande Grotto
Sean H wrote:
Poor man's TC Pros? More like TC Pros for people that don't have narrow euro feet.


Disagree 100% with this. The TC Pro isn't narrow by any stretch of the imagination. Sportiva makes wide range of shoes and, depending on the last and shoe, they can be narrow or wider. Mythos are typically a narrow shoe (though the stretch like no other and can fit a lot of foot shapes).

I have a fairly wide foot and climb almost exclusively in Sportiva shoes, including the TC Pro which is AWESOME.

5.10 is almost always a more narrow last and I've never fit in any of their shoes other than the Moc.

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By Muff
Jul 24, 2012
.
I have worn a pair of the Astroman's and they're a great shoe. By no means would I refer to them as a poor version of the TC Pro. Sportiva has the most expensive shoes on the market and being that Evolv is an American made shoe we pay less to purchase them in the states. If you were to buy Evolvs in Europe or elsewhere you would see a hike in their retail value as well.

With that being said, these have a comfortable fit and they fit a wider foot. They have a stiff midsole and smaller profile than the 5.10 Grandstone. Like the TC Pros, you will be hard pressed to get them into a thin crack.

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By rhyang
From San Jose, CA
Oct 9, 2012
21-August-2012: Me just before heading up the Twilight Pillar (III, 5.8+)
I see these are hitting the e-tailers now. Any impressions on sizing ? Curious to know how stiff they are compared to the Acopa JB's and TC pro's.

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By Jeff Schroeder
From Minneapolis, MN
Oct 16, 2012
Klahanie Crack
Ive been climbing in the Astromans the past week. I wear an 11 - 11.5 street shoe and bought a 44.5. The 44 was too small. Its perfect for an all day shoe. They are a nice stiff shoe but very comfortable, slightly stiffer than the TC Pros. They have stretched about a 1/4 size so far. I just crank down on the laces a bit more then when they were new. My feet are average width and find the astromans are not too narrow and not too wide.

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By mountainhick
From Black Hawk, CO
Oct 18, 2012
TC pros are wearing out, thinking about getting Astroman, but for now can't try on. Anyone used both Astro and TC pro and can comment on sizing? I called evolv but they were only marginally helpful. Seems like either 10 or 10.5 evolv sizing. I wear 42.5 TC pro.

Thanks

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By Rob Dillon
Oct 18, 2012
AstroSue!
AstroSue!

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Oct 18, 2012
El Chorro
mattm wrote:
Disagree 100% with this. The TC Pro isn't narrow by any stretch of the imagination. Sportiva makes wide range of shoes and, depending on the last and shoe, they can be narrow or wider. Mythos are typically a narrow shoe (though the stretch like no other and can fit a lot of foot shapes). I have a fairly wide foot and climb almost exclusively in Sportiva shoes, including the TC Pro which is AWESOME. 5.10 is almost always a more narrow last and I've never fit in any of their shoes other than the Moc.


As someone who fits European shoes for a living, I can say that you are definitely an exception. The Euro brands (Scarpa, Sportiva, etc) are narrow. This is a pretty widely known fact. Of course you are correct in saying that not all of the shoes are narrow. But in general, Euros have narrower feet and the brands reflect that.

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By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 18, 2012
Me on Half Dome Boulder, Middle Finger of Fury <br /> <br />Awesome problem!
Fiveten came out with a high top Anasazi that looks pretty rad. fiveten.com/products/footwear-...

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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Oct 18, 2012
tanuki
They are selling the Astroman on zappos.com. If you are not sure of the size you can buy a few and return the ones that don't fit. Zappos offers free shipping on both orders and returns.

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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Oct 27, 2012
tanuki
Curious to hear from anyone who has actually purchased and climbed on these things. What are they like?

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By Chad F
From Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 27, 2012
photo
Sizing reference: I wear the 10.5 in astroman's. Fit as close to your street shoe as possible. I wear a 10.5 in Acopa legends and Acopa jb's, 10's in anastazi's. 9.5 moccs. Also wear 43 in sportiva approach shoes and trail runners.

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By Coppolo
From Denver, CO
Oct 27, 2012
Sunrise in Stevens gulch
I bought a pair.

Love them.
I wanted a super stiff hightop.
I have mortons toe and couldn't the sizing right on the TC Pros.

I wear 12 street and bought 12 in astroman for an all day, flat-toed crack fit.

My review (after 8 pitches in lumpy):
- by far the stiffest shoe I've ever worn (my "tight" shoes are miuras)
they feel as stiff as the board lasted boreal ballet golds (another shoe I courted)

- they edge excellently all over the sole....but you definitely need to see the hold, you can't feel a thing.

-they smear well enough for me to not notice any difference from the miuras....I'm sure if you've worn supermocs these smear horribly.

-they are fantastic in the cracks. Smallest I've been in with them is tight hands. Where I really noticed the benefit of that stiffness most is in lumpy water grooves and incipient cracks. I could ratchet in a groove and feel really solid, like it was (almost) a splitter. These shoes almost made me feel like I was cheating.

-I haven't worn them in finger cracks, I don't think the toe profile is low enough. I'll try it and tell you all how much I flail.

-Durability is solid, the leather is really thick and the laces are set back from the toe so they don't get hammered jam after jam.

-The tongue....it lets in a lot of debris on walk offs.

I've never worn evolv rubber, I'm impressed with it. That being said, I am looking forward to wearing them out and having RocknResole put C4 on them.

OVERALL: A great all day trad/crack shoe alternative to the TC Pro. If the TC Pro last doesn't work for your foot shape, or you want to save 30 bucks, the astroman is a super comfy, super stiff, super durable winner.







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By knowbuddy
Oct 27, 2012
A
While they are my least favorite high top I own I still really like them. They make a great comfy, stiff high top for all day moderates. They aren't as stiff as the JB's and are no where to close to having the soft technical abilities of the grandstones let alone the TC pros. Here is what I have and what I use them for. I wear a heigh probably 3/4 of the time I climb.

Approach/boot size is usually 9.5-10 for most brands.

T.C. Pro: size 41- fit for thin to medium socks. Best all around shoe I have ever climbed in, especially since i resoled them with XS grip. This is my go to and by far most worn shoe.

J.B: size 42- fit for no sock. Stiffest shoe I own. Obviously my go to wide and off width shoe.

Grandstones: size 41- fit for no to med sock. My TC pros have been resoled and are getting low so I've been using these place of them as my all around shoe. They are stiff enough for wider stuff yet far softer and more technical than the AM.

Atromans: size 42.5- fit for med to thick socks. Normally I won't fit a climbing shoe this big but the seam in the toe box was bugging the fuck out of me and there is no way I could climb comfortably in these without a sock on. I don't mind because I do a lot of desert/crack climbing in the winter and socks add warm and padding. These will probably be my primary winter creek shoe because they do awesome on rattley fingers to off width, they are fitted for socks and I dont mind wearing them out. All in all a good stiff high top for all day and doing laps. If your looking for an all around shoe, there is nothing I have climbed in that compares to the TC pro. If you want a great stiff shoe with ankle support, dig around and find some JB's. Between the grandstones and the Atromans I choose the grandstones 9 out of 10 times because they are softer but still stiff enough to edge great and give you a plank to stand on in wide stuff.

Edit.
Approach/boot- 9.5-10
TC pro-8.5 with no to med
JB-9 with no sock
GS-8 with no or thin sock
AM-9.5 with med to thick sock

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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Oct 28, 2012
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do
i have only seen one person's opinion about the rubber, what do the rest of you think of the Evolv rubber?

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Oct 28, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Weston L wrote:
i have only seen one person's opinion about the rubber, what do the rest of you think of the Evolv rubber?


I used to like it more, got many resoles with their rubber with no complaints. Then, I got some Evolv Evos a year ago and they absolutely sucked outdoors. I wasn't sure what was going on, since I'd had the same shoes before with no problems. They've rounded out into good gym shoes though.

I'm pretty much rocking only Sportiva rubber these days.

You could just use the Evolv rubber until it wears down and then get it resoled with whatever you normally like.

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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Oct 28, 2012
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do
Well, I don't have the Evolv Astroman's, but a buddy of mine swears by the evolv rubber and I have two pairs of shoes that need to be resoled + their "Yosemite Bum Resole" is cheaper than the other resolers I use and have a faster turnaround time. Just hoping it is as good as the Five Ten rubber I have been using.

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 28, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Coppolo wrote:
I bought a pair. Love them. I wanted a super stiff hightop. I have mortons toe and couldn't the sizing right on the TC Pros. I wear 12 street and bought 12 in astroman for an all day, flat-toed crack fit. My review (after 8 pitches in lumpy): - by far the stiffest shoe I've ever worn (my "tight" shoes are miuras) they feel as stiff as the board lasted boreal ballet golds (another shoe I courted) - they edge excellently all over the sole....but you definitely need to see the hold, you can't feel a thing. -they smear well enough for me to not notice any difference from the miuras....I'm sure if you've worn supermocs these smear horribly. -they are fantastic in the cracks. Smallest I've been in with them is tight hands. Where I really noticed the benefit of that stiffness most is in lumpy water grooves and incipient cracks. I could ratchet in a groove and feel really solid, like it was (almost) a splitter. These shoes almost made me feel like I was cheating. -I haven't worn them in finger cracks, I don't think the toe profile is low enough. I'll try it and tell you all how much I flail. -Durability is solid, the leather is really thick and the laces are set back from the toe so they don't get hammered jam after jam. -The tongue....it lets in a lot of debris on walk offs. I've never worn evolv rubber, I'm impressed with it. That being said, I am looking forward to wearing them out and having RocknResole put C4 on them. OVERALL: A great all day trad/crack shoe alternative to the TC Pro. If the TC Pro last doesn't work for your foot shape, or you want to save 30 bucks, the astroman is a super comfy, super stiff, super durable winner.


I hope I agree! I also wear a 12 and I'm trying on a pair in the same size tonight when I get off work. Have a brand new pair of TC pros (in a 46) I might return because the toe box is still a little tight and I also have mortons toe. I'm also picking up a pair of super moccs. Then I'll have 3 pairs of shoes including the katana laces, I think that rounds out nicely for different styles of climbing.

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 28, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Just tried a pair on at bentgate in a 12. All around much better fit and a lot more comfortable than the TC pros I bought from them last week in a 46. Returned the TC pros and kept the Evolv's. Taking them to red rocks for a week next week, if I remember I'll make a write up.

Comparing them they look and feel like they're a lot better made, the sole is WAY thicker which I'm sure will remove some sensitivity but I didn't think TC pros were very good in that category either. The toe box is wider, therefore a lot more comfortable. I wear a 12 in street shoes and also have a slight mortons toes for anyone else looking. I can definitely see getting them resoled with some stealth rubber but we'll see how the evolv stuff does.

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Oct 28, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Weston L wrote:
Well, I don't have the Evolv Astroman's, but a buddy of mine swears by the evolv rubber and I have two pairs of shoes that need to be resoled + their "Yosemite Bum Resole" is cheaper than the other resolers I use and have a faster turnaround time. Just hoping it is as good as the Five Ten rubber I have been using.


It's not bad. I don't get resoles with it anymore though. I miss the Yose Bum deals though!

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