evolv addicts (climbing slipper)
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i am interested in the addicts as a crack/multi-pitch shoe (which is what they're made for) and was wondering if anyone has any experience with them and could tell me if they're a good shoe. |
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I have not tried them. I'm still going to answer though. |
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+1 for the defy. At <;$50 online, you can beat the hell out of em. I also have a feeling they are the shoe that Steph Davis gives out, "sized larger for crack," in her Indian Creek clinics. |
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i was considering the mocs but a lot of people steered me away from them, and every 5.10 i've tried on has felt sloppy and wrong on me (heels are completely loose and toes never sit right). |
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I've had very good luck with Bandit velcros. They won't be as comfortable as moccs in thinner sizes, but they've been great in tight hands and up. They edge really well (much better than defys), and the pointed toe works well in finger sized cracks and pods. |
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I've been climbing in the addicts for the last 2 weeks. I haven't had them long enough to comment on durability or how long the rubber lasts. I will say that I love the fit. They feel just like moccs with a heel that fits me better. If you like the sensitive leather slipper style and are looking to try a new shoe shape then go for it. I've been happy with them. |
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camp4climber wrote:I've been climbing in the addicts for the last 2 weeks. I haven't had them long enough to comment on durability or how long the rubber lasts. I will say that I love the fit. They feel just like moccs with a heel that fits me better. If you like the sensitive leather slipper style and are looking to try a new shoe shape then go for it. I've been happy with them.How does the sizing compare with 5.10 moc? |
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have you noticed any considerable stretch? the 10's fit me well and and i feel like the stretch shouldn't be too bad. i have never worn evolvs before and don't want to end up with a loose shoe. i can hardly get into the 9 1/2 though |
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I have also noticed that when someone posts up asking about an inferior product, most times, their mind is made up and they do end up buying the inferior product. |
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I have a pair and don't love them. The edging is poor, and the tongue comes to far up restricting the motion of the foot. They will probably become my go to for long easy moderate multi pitch, slab climbing and the like, but I still like my muiras, 1/2 a size bigger for that anyway. |
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Wanting to grab a pair of these. How do these stretch if any? Any feedback is appreciated, thank you |
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Maybe 1/2 a size at most so far. I sized these down a full size, and I've found they're pretty damn good for edging actually! |
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caughtinside wrote:Are they made of leather? Or the synthetic material Evolv uses on all their other shoes? I've always thought evolvs are well made, but I've got sweaty feet and the synthetic material doesn't absorb sweat well and always leaves my feet wet and clammy.According to the website, it's leather. Leather upper and footbed provides custom fit and comfort |
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I am pretty psyched on the addicts. |
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so i've been climbing in these for quite some time now and can't say enough good things about them. they edge exceptionally well, are awesome at smearing, jam like a dream (even on thin cracks) and they didn't bag out. i also have a pair of moccasyms now that don't even compare. they are pretty good at smearing and jamming in cracks down to #1 BD, but can't edge at all are aren't very good at thinner crack. they also fit really wide and just feel loose and floppy. good for moderate/easy multipitch outings though |
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i'm not exactly sure, but i would think so since they're much stiffer than the mocs |
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I had climbed in nothing but 5.10 moccs for 12 years, and I headed out to Yosemite late this august. Nobody in climbing town USA had moccs in my size so I tried on the Addict and was immediately impressed. It was just like the mocc, with a superior fit and inferior rubber. The fit was better in the toes and far better in the heel. It took much longer to break in the Addict and there was, as one commenter above stated, a wicked Hotspot in the heel. Now I have had them re-soled with stealth C4 and they are the cats ass, cooler than sliced bread. I put them through the wringer in the valley, I feed 16 pitches on the Nose with them, freed those scary slabs on the FreeBlast with them, Bouldered with them, and I've been able to clip up steep routes with them. Technique is my strength and I am light on my feet and easy on shoes so I can't yet say how durable they are but so far so good and I certainly would recommend them. |
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caughtinside wrote: Really? Is there a last in the addicts? I had assumed they were just an unlasted shoe like the moccs.You're confusing "last" (all shoes are built on a last; it's the foot-shaped form they are formed around) and "midsole". See also "board lasted" vs "slip lasted". |
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ShireSmitty wrote: I had climbed in nothing but 5.10 moccs for 12 years, and I headed out to Yosemite late this august. Nobody in climbing town USA had moccs in my size so I tried on the Addict and was immediately impressed. It was just like the mocc, with a superior fit and inferior rubber. The fit was better in the toes and far better in the heel. It took much longer to break in the Addict and there was, as one commenter above stated, a wicked Hotspot in the heel. Now I have had them re-soled with stealth C4 and they are the cats ass, cooler than sliced bread. I put them through the wringer in the valley, I feed 16 pitches on the Nose with them, freed those scary slabs on the FreeBlast with them, Bouldered with them, and I've been able to clip up steep routes with them. Technique is my strength and I am light on my feet and easy on shoes so I can't yet say how durable they are but so far so good and I certainly would recommend them.I can't wait to resole these bad boys actually. Once I get some c4 on them they'll easy be my go to show for everything. Side note, I love how sensitive these shoes are! They put my Anasazis to shame. I'll be buying these as long as they make em! |
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WillamR wrote: I can't wait to resole these bad boys actually. Once I get some c4 on them they'll easy be my go to show for everything. Side note, I love how sensitive these shoes are! They put my Anasazis to shame. I'll be buying these as long as they make em!It's interesting to hear so many good reviews of these shoes considering the company. It definitely sounds like they're built very different from most Evolve's, that probably helps a lot. Quick note about buying as long as they make them...Evolve has a few stable models but they do seem to cycle through shoes in 1 to 3 years. The Defy and the Pontas seem to be an exception. Geez, I had 2 pairs of the gray slipper just like the addict except synthetic, it was replaced by the Defy. It might be worth stockpiling if they really are that good. |
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I am 10.5 street shoe size. I want all day comfortable flat fit without slop for the long term (not necessarily immediately out of the box, can tolerate some break in). Should I order 10.5 addicts? |