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The Rock of Ages
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cave Route S 
Evolution S 
Old Bolt Route TR 
Red Face TR 
West Face S 

Evolution 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 155'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chad Suchoski
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,713
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Oct 11, 2006

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Dimitri climbs Evolution 5.10b/c on Rock of Ages, ...

Description 

Starts 40 ft to the right of the Cave Route and shares the first five bolts with the West Face route. At the first cave, go left and continue up past a bolt and into a larger cave. From here, go out left (through a short crux) up a steep headwall. Continue strait up what seems to be a never ending wall. Nearly every bolt has a good stacne/rest where you clip it followed by sustained moves up holds that are hard to see. Searching around a bit before you commit to the next move usually produces a better hold or foot on this one. The topout's a bit spicy until you find the right holds (hint; go right!). A two bolt anchor awaits at the top. This route is 155 ft long almost exactly, so you need at least a 55m rope. You can break the route into two pitches by belaying from the anchors in the lower cave. Raptors use these caves for nesting every year so stay off these routes from Feb 1st throuth June 30th.

Location 

Walk off the backside from the top.

Protection 

15 Quickdraws, Runners usefull.


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Dimitri climbs Evolution 5.10b/c.
Dimitri climbs Evolution 5.10b/c.

Comments on Evolution Add Comment
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By aa-lex
Oct 8, 2007

The anchor bolts are at the top directly above the last bolt. You can't really see them cuz they're over the edge of a ledge. I thought that the anchors I needed to get to were the anchors for the next route over because when I was at the top those were the only ones I noticed, so I went around the back of the hump/high point of the rock via going left after the last bolt...either way it worked, but the real anchor bolts are directly above the last bolt. Just a heads up... most people will probably figure it out fine, I just had my head up my #$&. Anyway, the climb was really fun! It has many bolts (15 + 2 at the anchors) so you better have a lot of draws...I had to back clean a couple. The route probably needs a little more traffic to get cleaned up. I knocked a fair amount of that lovely loose sandstone off. Hope this helps!
By clustiere
Aug 24, 2012

Looks good, may be the longest route in the bay area?
By Rough
Aug 25, 2012

Not even close. Aloha Patrol at DTSA is a lot longer (~250')
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Aug 28, 2012

I lead Aloha Patrol with a 70m rope in 1 pitch. Rope stretcher for sure. I think its 231 ft tops ;) Still, I cant think of anything that's longer than that in the area. Maybe the route I put up next to it (actually first climbed by Steve Roper on aid in the late 50's) due to all the traversing, ha!

Either way, Evolution is not the longest in the Bay Area. It's 155 ft exactly. Yes, I actually measured it.
By Ben Reardon
Aug 31, 2012

Where is Aloha Patrol and DTSA?
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Sep 3, 2012

Along the Pacific Palisades on Table Rock situated in Robert Lewis Stevenson park just across the street from Mt St.Helena.

Google that and you'll find it.

1.5 Mi approach, 50+ routes up to 4 pitches. All well bolted. An open mind as to what constitutes rock is a must.