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|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.11+ [details]|
|FA: ||Tyler Adams, Mark Deffenbaugh 9/2008|
|Season: ||Morning to mid afternoon sun|
|Submitted By: ||Jon Rhoderick on May 29, 2012|
A spectacular 12 ft crack amongst a sea of epic choss.
P1: pull committing moves on holds with the composition of cemented sand. Thankfully this pitch traverses away from the belayer . Possibly the worst sport pitch in Smith. 10- choss
P2: Much better climbing on good knobs. This is the most sustained of the 5.10 pitches and after 12 bolts you reach the Perch which is a decent ledge to rest on. 5.10
P3: look to the left for your first bolt. Good climbing on mostly positive chickenheads but not too memorable. Alternatively the pitch above your belay bolts also reaches the next belay. 5.10-
P4: the business. After threatening all hikers below on the choss before the first bolt, pull a fantastic roof crack requiring some beefcake moves and a possible heel hook or two. No more than 3 cams required (#.75 #2 C4 #2 metolius). The 5 inch mentioned in the guidebook will not help you on this pitch. We thought this climbed like a softer version of Rio's crack in the Sads. 5.11+
P5: deceptively good stone leads to some of the worst rock of the route, ready to launch rockets at your belayer. At the final bolt mantle to the right NOT to the left. 5.10 choss
P6: after moving around exfoliating rock climb up through good pockets and bad footholds as you watch the vultures circle below. 5.10
Pick a quiet day to do this one and bring a helmet.
From Christian Brothers climb up towards the pass then go left. Pass the bolted low angle slab of White Satin/Lost in Space to a tree below. Look for a low angle slab trending left with a first bolt around 15 feet up and closely spaced bolts following.
3 cams or so and 12 quickdraws and helmets.