Evolution aka Gimme Back My Bullets 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | S. Annecone and T. Hayes, 2006 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Steve Annecone on Jan 14, 2006 |
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Evolution snakes up the thin seam in the middle of...
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Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted Early at Security Risk MORE INFO >>>
The seasonal raptor closure has been lifted at Security Risk and Eagle Rock as of April 16, 2013. The closure is still in effect at Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Evolution, formerly known as "Gimme Back my Bullets" and first TR'd in 1993, starts at the beginning of Cold Shot and then follows the sinuous seam crack up the Higher Security face. It's fairly sustained, with 11a or b cruxes at the 3rd, 4th, and 5th bolts. Exit the pod at the 5th bolt, angle up the left leaning crack, then hand traverse up a nice rail to the anchor.
There's still some scaly rock in places, but it's cleaning up quickly. Feels as pumpy and sustained as Cold Shot, but it's more technical and perhaps a little steeper.
Protection Quick draws only, 6 bolts to anchor.
Tom at the first crux past the 3rd bolt, eyeing hi...
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| Comments on Evolution aka Gimme Back My Bullets |
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 26, 2006
| As a heads up, there's still plenty of loose rock on this thing. |
By Robbie the Dog
Sep 10, 2006
| I second the heads up on the loose rock. A couple of foot holds disintegrated as I was traversing into the bigger stuff to the left. Several flakes flex, and there seems to be a largish area of hollow and scaly rock to the left of the crack that ends in the bigger stuff. If it received a serious exfoliation, it might be worth it. |
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Dec 11, 2006
rating: 5.11b
| I agree with the two comments above, this route still needs some serious cleaning. |
By slim
Dec 15, 2008
rating: 5.11c
| Ok climbing, but weird bolt locations and exfoliating chips blowing out from under left foot at crux. Felt harder than a lot of the 11d to 12a routes that I have done in the canyon. Not sure why, just kind of a weird route. |
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Oct 3, 2009
| Higher Security Risk still needs a little cleaning, but I thought this route was pretty nice and I wouldn't give it a bomb. There were several interesting moves, particularly getting into and out of the "pod". Most of the looser rock is near the anchors. This face gets a lot of good late-season sun in the afternoon. |
By Ray Lovestead
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.11
| 2012 - clean as a whistle. Ready for prime time and totally worth it.
Two distinct cruxes that are worth the effort of figuring out. I give it 2.5 stars. More if it was longer. |
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