Evilution V12-13 R
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| Type: | Boulder, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | V12-13 [details] |
| FA: | Jason Kehl |
| Submitted By: | Tim Steele on Jan 14, 2007 |
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Evilution.
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Description This landmark problem was first climbed by Jason Kehl, and stands as a North American classic. At 55 feet, it is closer to a route than a boulder problem, and represents a new breed of boulder problems pushing the envelope of highball bouldering. The initial face was first ascended by Chris Sharma around the same time that he did 'The Mandala'. Originally, Chris simply dropped off from the lip holds at 20+ feet (most people down climb a bit before dropping). The initial face features steep patina crimps on immaculate rock streaked with yellow lichen. The drop-off problem is a classic in its own right and checks in at V9/10.
Jason’s visionary line pulls the thin lip moves above the drop-off problem and continues onto an insecure 5.11 slab. The upper crux is purportedly V9. Since Jason’s ascent, a variation has been established that takes are rightward exit that has easier moves, but on less than solid rock.
Location Center of the South face of the Grandpa Peabody.
Protection pads and spotters...lots of them.
The opening moves of 'Evilution'
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Flailing on "Evilution"
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Jerad Friedrichs at the start of Evilution
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Evilution
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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 31, 2008
| Awesome problem. Evilution to the lip is a must-do for anyone climbing in the V10 range. |
By molony
Feb 18, 2009
| just curious, but does the drop off version have a different name? |
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 19, 2009
| Yep, it's called "Evilution to the Lip" |
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Mar 5, 2009
| I think what molony might be thinking of is Transporter Room, an old Dale Bard problem that went up that face. Other than that, I can't say whether "Evilution to the Lip" treads new ground or not. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 9, 2009
| As far as I know Transporter Room is just around the corner to the right of Evolution and it would be pretty hard to get them mixed up. |
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Mar 30, 2009
| I'm basing that belief on the OLD Eastside guide that had poorly written topos of the Milks. In fact, mine could be a incorrect recollection of a correct description, or vice versa. To be honest, I never cross referenced that against the the new Mick Ryan guide (which I also have) since I've never been good enough to climb that hard that far OTD. I've bouldered there and just also thought that that's where Transporter Room went. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 30, 2009
| Yep- that would be the one. It seems as though the B2 would be "Evilution to the Lip" and that aspect faces the road more. The left hand .12c may not actually exist, I saw some folks out there with ladders to scope holds and some chalk on it for the first time ever. The location of Transporter Room is actually pretty close but the face that it is on is much wider and runs more perpendicular to the road. The easier routes are further right still around a blunt arete and starting near the blunt arete and heading left into the towering face that overhangs slightly all the way to the top of the boulder which was what I always thought was "Transporter Room" is actually Ambrosia V11+++. A new Kevin J. problem, He had actually also been under the impresion that this was Transporter Room until an actual description of the route was availible and made it apparent that it was closer to the left arete of the face. |
By molony
Apr 7, 2009
| i was actually wondering if sharma had given the problem a namewhen he originally did it, guess not |
By Mark Kauz
From: Madison, WI
Feb 3, 2010
| Who's got repeats on this? I know Alex Johnson did it, but I'm not sure if it was to the lip or all the way up. |
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