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Evil 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Eric Johnson ("Smooth Boy"), 1991
Page Views: 1,301
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 12, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Swavik Gaik (post-send fitness lap). Photo by Dan...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is as roadside as it gets -- in fact, it's literally on top of the road, so anything you knock down, including yourself, is likely to cause a catastrophic pile-up of unimaginable dimensions on traffic-choked US Route 6 a mere 50 feet below.

Use caution -- there is a giant boulder bolted to the ledge with a bit of chain. It's actually a piece of the route that was trundled off with the bolt in place in order to keep it from going the distance. Try not to knock this -- or anthing else -- off the ledge.

Evil climbs out the short but very overhanging cave up and left of the road just before you cross the bridge and enter Tunnel 2. Park at Sonic Youth, walk up the road and scramble up dirty ramps near a black-and-white streaked wall on the left (south) side of the road. Pick your way across the choss-covered ledge and look up (out). This is Evil.

Or is it? While seemingly a fitting route name for such a roadside monstrosity, "Evil" actually derives from some graffiti that Eric Johnson saw one a bathroom wall in the Norlin Library on the CU-Boulder campus. The kicker is that this graffiti was written with human shit. Go figure . . .

Despite the road noise this is a pretty cool route. A hard boulder problem low gives way to more powerful climbing on positive holds and a crimpy lip encounter. This route defines bouldering with a rope.

Protection 

8-9 quickdraws.


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By Nate Weitzel
Nov 13, 2001

I think Evil holds as one of the more solid climbs of its grade in the canyon, and as one of the best. It has some great moves with the overhanging climbing being both technical and powerful. The lip crux however has repeatedly shut me down, and I think it must take some stronger fingers than mine to get it. The caution is well advised due to location and loose rock on the belay, but this route is superb.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 14, 2001

I'm surprised this didn't get a lame glue message. Isn't the block at the top reinforced?
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 15, 2001

I am getting a little tired of all the lame reinforced / modified hold comments. Let's just go climbing; there are bigger issues in this world to be concerned with besides a little epoxy on an obscure rock face, out of sight from anyone but climbers....
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Oct 12, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Does anyone know anything about the two bolted routes to the left of this climb?
By Swavek Gaik
From: Superior, CO
May 20, 2012

It's a great, continuous route with three distinct boulder problems separated by no rests. It helps to be tall and the temps to be low (although it seems to be in the shade all the time). Rock is great and the clips are easy (except for the last one which you clip once you're past it). With Dan Levison, we exchanged the 4th fixed draw for a chain one, since it was being cut by a sharp edge.
By Mr. Nick
Jun 22, 2012

Thank you for fixing the draw. Myself and another climber were at the New River Wall watching. Now I can feel a bit better about slogging up this rig when I finally sack up and walk up there for it.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2012

This route deserves a little more respect. The ledge is way larger than you would think and actually a pretty nice hangout with the road and river below you. I climbed it today in the pouring rain and it was perfectly dry. Not to mention the actual moves are really fun. Burly is the name of the game on this route with 3 distinct cruxes and not much rest in between. Awesome route and very very solid 5.13 climbing leaning towards the upper end if you ask me. To whoever replaced several of the draws recently and put up chain draws, thank you! Dan Levison was this you??? Get er done.....