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The Black Tower
Routes Sorted
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Crown of Thorns S 
Evil Twin S 
Exhumed S 
Umbilical Cord S 
What’s the Point S 

Evil Twin 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Duck, 1995
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 403
Submitted By: Kevin Duck on Aug 24, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Lead this clean, you can see the first three bolts...


This route ascends the south west face of the Black Tower, between Umbilical Cord and Crown Of Thorns past six bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains. The crux is encountered at the second bolt.


South west face of the Black Tower, between Umbilical Cord and Crown Of Thorns. Rappel descent.


Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.

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Topo showing Evil Twin route.
BETA PHOTO: Topo showing Evil Twin route.

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By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 23, 2011

Bottom portion has very sustained crimps and tricky footwork. The upper portion is fantastic!
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Nov 30, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I think this is one I climbed back in the 90's shortly after the first ascent by the looks of it. I thought it was a very good climb - as it stuck in my memory better than most others there.
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