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 ADVANCED
Grotto Left (East Side)
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Affirmative Action S 
Bedeviled S 
Bergers Bakeshop S 
Better Late than Never S 
Bush in a Blender S 
Chopping Block S 
Cruella de Vil S 
Diabolical S 
Drama Queen S 
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 
Evil S 
Evil Paradise S 
Good S 
Hidden Slab S 
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 
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Muscle Crow S 
Ojo S 
Panic Attack T 
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Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 
Under Powered S 
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 
Waiting to Procrastinate S 

Evil Paradise 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rick & Leslie Bradshaw 2000
Page Views: 1,514
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jun 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Getting into some good hand jams low on the route....

Description 

This great climb has a little bit of everything. It has crack climbing to laybacks to face to slab. Might be easiest to skip the bolted belay and be careful getting to the first bolt, at most 5.6.

Location 

The face to the left of Hidden Slab

Protection 

12 bolts + anchors


Photos of Evil Paradise Slideshow Add Photo
One move from the anchor. March 2010.
One move from the anchor. March 2010.

Comments on Evil Paradise Add Comment
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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

My favorite 10 at Diablo. Varied climbing and well protected. Crux is short section 10c. Most of climb 10a/b mostly 10a. Must do climb.
By Wa3lt
Nov 26, 2006

Hi guys -

FA was by Rick Bradshaw, I think assisted by his wife Leslie. Probably 2000.

-Walt
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 5, 2007

This is do-able with a 50m rope, but it sucks and requires a bit of sketchiness. 60m rope highly recommended. Really fun climbing but the rock could be better.
By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 5, 2010

I would go ahead and reccomend the bolted belay. But that may not be your cup of tea. Either way a really fun climb. Don't get tunnel vision. It's got all you need.
By Ken Kisiel
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Felt the rock was excellent for Diablo. Great position with many cruxes.
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