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Evil Paradise Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Drama Queen S 
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 
Evil Paradise S 
Hidden Slab S 
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 
Panic Attack T 
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 

Evil Paradise 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rick & Leslie Bradshaw 2000
Page Views: 1,396
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jun 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Getting into some good hand jams low on the route....


This great climb has a little bit of everything. It has crack climbing to laybacks to face to slab. Might be easiest to skip the bolted belay and be careful getting to the first bolt, at most 5.6.


The face to the left of Hidden Slab


12 bolts + anchors

Photos of Evil Paradise Slideshow Add Photo
One move from the anchor. March 2010.
One move from the anchor. March 2010.

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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

My favorite 10 at Diablo. Varied climbing and well protected. Crux is short section 10c. Most of climb 10a/b mostly 10a. Must do climb.
By Wa3lt
Nov 26, 2006

Hi guys -

FA was by Rick Bradshaw, I think assisted by his wife Leslie. Probably 2000.

By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 5, 2007

This is do-able with a 50m rope, but it sucks and requires a bit of sketchiness. 60m rope highly recommended. Really fun climbing but the rock could be better.
By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 5, 2010

I would go ahead and reccomend the bolted belay. But that may not be your cup of tea. Either way a really fun climb. Don't get tunnel vision. It's got all you need.
By Ken Kisiel
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Felt the rock was excellent for Diablo. Great position with many cruxes.
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