Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Evil Paradise Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Drama Queen S 
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 
Evil Paradise S 
Hidden Slab S 
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 
Panic Attack T 
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 

Evil Paradise Area 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 3,635
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on May 15, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
BETA PHOTO: Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto.

Courtesy...

Description 

The set of routes on the smooth looking stone on the left side of the Grotto's end. The basalt from the upper tier basalt connects with the canyon floor here.

There's a 2-bolt anchor on the highest ledge at the start of Evil Paradise and Hidden Slab that's a good place to belay climbers on these routes, and let's you lower off these routes without worrying about lowering off the end of your rope.


Getting There 

Continue about 100 yards up the canyon from the Lower Grotto routes, the Evil Paradise area is up on the left wall.


Climbing Season


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Evil Paradise Area:
Evil Paradise   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 80'   
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad   
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Evil Paradise Area

Featured Route For Evil Paradise Area
High on the route on a gorgeous spring day. March 2010.

El Areto Bolto Del Diablo 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Evil Paradise Area
This awesome route is likely one of the best 5.10s at Diablo, on par with the Winter Wall classic Grape Ape and the best of the Early Wall, Grotto, etc. Anchor your belayer to the two bolts on the right side of the gully. Clip the first two bolts on easy terrain before traversing left towards the arete. The route really gets going around bolt five, with tricky moves and a bizarre mantle to get established on the arete. From here, get psyched for 50 feet of continuous, technical face climbing on ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Evil Paradise Area Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -