BETA PHOTO: Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto. Courtesy...
The set of routes on the smooth looking stone on the left side of the Grotto's end. The basalt from the upper tier basalt connects with the canyon floor here.
There's a 2-bolt anchor on the highest ledge at the start of Evil Paradise
and Hidden Slab
that's a good place to belay climbers on these routes, and let's you lower off these routes without worrying about lowering off the end of your rope.
Continue about 100 yards up the canyon from the Lower Grotto
routes, the Evil Paradise area is up on the left wall.
Weather station 6.7 miles from here
7 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Evil Paradise Area:
Featured Route For Evil Paradise Area
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b NM
: Santa Fe Area
: ... : Evil Paradise Area
This awesome route is likely one of the best 5.10s at Diablo, on par with the Winter Wall classic Grape Ape and the best of the Early Wall, Grotto, etc. Anchor your belayer to the two bolts on the right side of the gully. Clip the first two bolts on easy terrain before traversing left towards the arete. The route really gets going around bolt five, with tricky moves and a bizarre mantle to get established on the arete. From here, get psyched for 50 feet of continuous, technical face climbing on ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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