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Evil Paradise Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Drama Queen 
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo 
Evil Paradise 
Hidden Slab 
Lucifer's Hammer Drill 
Panic Attack 
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) 

Evil Paradise Area 


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on May 15, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto.

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Description 

The set of routes on the smooth looking stone on the left side of the Grotto's end. The basalt from the upper tier basalt connects with the canyon floor here.

There's a 2-bolt anchor on the highest ledge at the start of Evil Paradise and Hidden Slab that's a good place to belay climbers on these routes, and let's you lower off these routes without worrying about lowering off the end of your rope.


Getting There 

Continue about 100 yards up the canyon from the Lower Grotto routes, the Evil Paradise area is up on the left wall.


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Evil Paradise Area:
Evil Paradise   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 80'   
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package)   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad   
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Evil Paradise Area

Featured Route For Evil Paradise Area
High on the route on a gorgeous spring day. March 2010.

El Areto Bolto Del Diablo 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Evil Paradise Area
This awesome route is likely one of the best 5.10s at Diablo, on par with the Winter Wall classic Grape Ape and the best of the Early Wall, Grotto, etc. Anchor your belayer to the two bolts on the right side of the gully. Clip the first two bolts on easy terrain before traversing left towards the arete. The route really gets going around bolt five, with tricky moves and a bizarre mantle to get established on the arete. From here, get psyched for 50 feet of continuous, technical face climbing on ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

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