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Evil Medical School
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 26
votes
Routes in The Balcony
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Angry Sea Bass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Austin Powers, International Man of Mystery S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chupacobbler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cobzilla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dr. Evil S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Evil Medical School S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jug-or-Naut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mini Me S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Mister Bigglesworth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nine Lives S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rodent Outhouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 851 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Jul 12, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Warning
Details
Season Raptor Nesting
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
The 2nd climb from the left end is relatively tricky and is one of the hardest lines on the main part of the Balcony. It angles up and right, with the crux moving past a bulge at about the 3rd bolt. The top half is substantially easier, as the cliff angles back.
As with many of the newest routes at El Rito, it's generously bolted with high quality hardware, and fun; though this one is new enough that we knocked off a couple of small chunks, but it will clean up nicely with more traffic.
As with many of the newest routes at El Rito, it's generously bolted with high quality hardware, and fun; though this one is new enough that we knocked off a couple of small chunks, but it will clean up nicely with more traffic.
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