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 ADVANCED
The Alligator Lounge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Altered State T 
Bury The Bone T 
Evil Genius T 
Feel the Void T 
Good and Plenty T 
Heels over Head T 
Lator Gator T 
Let's Do It Again, Daddy T 
Lounge Lizard T 
Optical Illusion T 
Scalamander T 
Scale Me T 
Slot, The T 
Spank Me T 
Wave Goodbye S 
Wild Thing S 

Evil Genius 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: K. Mclaughlin, S. Cheyney
Page Views: 995
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jun 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Evil Genius.... Good route.

Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I enjoyed this surprisingly steep route as much as anything else I've done at TR, though the start is marred by some crumbly rock. Seemed tough for the grade e.g. harder than Bury the Bone. Goes into the shade earlier than most of the other routes on the east side of the Alligator Lounge.

P1. (10+, 60') The first 3m is the crux. A shallow 3/4" piece such as a red Alien or an orange TCU provides the only pro that would keep you off the deck. After the crux, move up on easier though not perfectly protected ground to a roof, pull this then blast up a thin hand crack to a ledge and a belay.

P2. (10, 60') Some gator skin face climbing leads to a crack which starts thin but widens wider than fists at the end. The angle eases off at the end so I didn't feel like I needed anything bigger than a blue Camalot. After topping out of the crack you can go left or right to anchors; neither choice is ideal. We went up and right to the top of the pinnacle where we established a gear belay from which we had to do a mini pitch to get down to the anchors.

We had a 70m rope each strand of which had about 3m remaining after rapping to the ground. I'm not sure if a 60m rope would make it to the ground and the rock overhangs enough that it would be a pain if it didn't.

Location 

Roughly 20m right of Daddy there is a buttress with a crack between two bolted lines. Evil Genius is the crack line.

Protection 

Stoppers and cams to blue Camalot with doubles in hand sizes.


Photos of Evil Genius Slideshow Add Photo
Josh below the roof getting ready to place first cam after the two new bolts.
Josh below the roof getting ready to place first c...
Under the roof .  Kelly Hartman.
Under the roof . Kelly Hartman.
Good clean livin' for Kelly Hartman.
Good clean livin' for Kelly Hartman.
Kelly with sweet jam for his sandwich.
Kelly with sweet jam for his sandwich.
Josh up and out the roof onto the steep face...it's a nice section of hand crack.
Josh up and out the roof onto the steep face...it'...

Comments on Evil Genius Add Comment
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By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Nov 9, 2008

F.A. K. Mclaughlin, S. Cheyney.
By Joshh
From: Denver, CO
May 27, 2010

Great Route...thanks for the bolts at the start!
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 17, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great route marred only by a short section of cruddy rock at the very start. The opening moves on the second pitch are exhilirating! At the very top, we ended up traversing 15' right with a couple of directionals up high, to the anchors on Wild Thing. The rope drag doing this was horrendous.